Express & Star

A breakfast date at Albert’s where the themed menu was simply ‘wunderbar’

A dictionary definition of a schloss is: a castle, palace or manor house: built as a retreat for recreation, indulgence, pleasure, and debauchery. How very Cabaret.

Published
The front of Albert's Schloss in Birmingham

My previous experiences of German bars in this part of the world tended to have been bier kellers back in the 1970s, together with two-pint steins of strong lager, oompah bands, dancing on the table, and oh yes, lederhosen.

Things have moved on. A quarter of the way into the new millennium, it is far more sophisticated. Yes, the steins of beer are still around, there's music (but I've yet to see men in leather shorts) and fine dining – in a schloss. Albert's Schloss that is. Not a place of debauchery, (I don't think), but certainly a place of recreation, pleasure and indulgence from excellent food and drink.

Situated in the centre of the ever-changing second city, it sits right at the heart of new developments and a thriving high-end residential community. There is a wealth of bars and restaurants, but the novelty of Albert's is that it is named after Prince Albert, Queen Victoria’s main squeeze, who, it is said, championed truth, beauty, freedom, and love.

This venue is at the aptly named Paradise, formerly Paradise Circus and close to Chamberlain Square. There is another in Manchester, one in Liverpool and another to be opened soon in London all are packed with memorabilia in a very German-styled bar, restaurant and entertainment venue.

The PR blurb says: "Albert’s Schloss celebrates the beloved Prince’s values every day and all night long. We’ve built a retreat from the modern world where we invite you to discover new things, celebrate one another, and revel in the wünder of our Schloss. Influenced by our travels across Alpine Europe; expect roaring fires, raucous performances, tankards of Europe’s finest bier, and endless naughtiness.”

So this was a food review with a difference as it covered the breakfast menu, available on Saturday and Sunday, which myself and my daughter sampled one Sunday morning. More of a brunch really, as it was around 11.30, but we were both struck with how many people were dining of all age groups.

It is a bright lively place with dozens of tables, a huge drinks selection and food to satisfy any particular taste. Not to mention a small army of friendly and efficient staff offering a warm welcome and attentive service. Duly placed and perusing the menu, it was clear a British German combination was the order of the day, or morning.

Top of the breakfast menu is a livener, so after a heavy previous night it seemed rude not to indulge, so we duly obliged with a Blood Mary and a Screwdriver. Well, the sun was over the yardarm somewhere in the world.  Clare went for a Bloody Mary, nicely presented and with a nice kick from the tabasco. My screwdriver, was, well, a screwdriver.

We were encouraged to try the pastries, but seeing the size of the menu, opted instead for a kind of doughnut with the decision to share proving a wise one. Freshly cooked and oozing with a chocolate flavour, it was truly decadent and too much would have spoiled the main event.

The menu is varied, with every dish rounded off to full pounds. None of your £9.99 nonsense. It features its speciality of home-cooked breads and pastries together with some more familiar dishes. I went for the Cook Haus Breakfast, a  Full English Breakfast with a bit of German in the name,  at £13. Clare went for the Salmon Royale, looking suspiciously like Eggs Benedict.

The Haus breakfast was a real plateful, featuring two Cumberland sausages, a pile smoked back bacon, black pudding, Burford Brown egg, roast portobello mushroom, roast tomato and potato rosti. Add a couple of slices of home-baked bread.

It is not the most Germanic of morning dishes, but hugely tasty and cooked to my liking. The roti was interesting, for me it was so well cooked it had a biscuit-like consistency. Just how I like it, but others may find it overcooked. Not for the calorie conscious.

The Salmon Royale at £10 was art on a plate, featuring Haus pide bread, Ugie smoked salmon, Burford Brown poached eggs, and hollandaise sauce.

One tries to be objective and slightly critical, but both dishes were exactly what should be expected and the kitchen staff certainly know their onions when it comes to cooking eggs. In my case fried and in the salmon dish, poached. Clare loved the salmon and runny egg combo, while the home-baked breads were a perfect complement to both meals.

Both plates were cleared and we declined further pastries, instead opting for a pot of tea and a coffee. An all-round excellent experience, enhanced by the attention to detail from the friendly staff, while the menu prices, for city centre dining, are more than competitive.

Sadly, we left as the afternoon entertainment was setting up and people were tucking into their Sunday roasts. My first time there and I will certainly return - the roast dinners looked the part. To paraphrase Milton, it was Paradise found.

Albert’s Schloss is open Monday – Sunday 12pm – 2am and the venue is dog friendly.

SAMPLE MENU

LIVENERS

Bloody Mary: £8 / Espresso Martini: £8 /  Screwdriver: £ 5

MAINS

HAUS PASTRY Baked in-Haus by our master bakers. Askr server for details: £4

KROISSANT ROYALE - Haus croissant, sweet slow slow-cooked onions, gouda, Burford Brown fried egg, crispy shallots, chives, curry ketchup.  Chose from smoked back bacon, Cumberland sausage or Moving Mountain vegetarian sausage:  £9

MUSHROOM HASH (V) -  Creamed garlic mushrooms, potato rosti, Burford, Brown eggs, chives: £8

TURKISH EGGS (V) - Garlic yoghurt, poached Burford Brown eggs, herbs, chilli butter, crispy onions, sourdough toast: £8

HAUS GRANOLA - Greek yoghurt, seasonal fruit compote, cinnamon, roasted seeds: £6

AVOCADO AND EGGS (V) Smashed avocado, poached Burford Brown eggs, basil, chilli butter, lime, sourdough toast: £8