Express & Star

Bentley Green, Walsall

On a cold night you could do worse than pull up a pew at this warming Black Country pub, writes Catherine Dalton.

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The temperature is dropping, cars are decorated with an early morning frost and the hot water bottle is getting closer to making its first appearance of the year,

writes Catherine Dalton

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Yes, winter is definitely well and truly on its way. So what can be better on a cold wintery night than an evening in a comfy chair, a log fire and a plate of warming food?

It may not have real log fires but Bentley Green restaurant and bar certainly succeeds in creating a warm, welcoming and homely feeling. Deep red walls and dark wood fittings help to make this pub/restaurant feel like a cosy hub tucked away despite it being just off the Black Contry Route in Bentley.

Exposed brick work, piles of logs and low lighting really do give the feel of a country pub, while abstract arty statues and paintings help keep it feeling young and modern.

Mismatched chairs and tables of all shapes and sizes - some tucked away in separate alcoves ideal for family parties - help to create an informal and lived-in feeling.

At the centre of the restaurant is a long, brightly lit and well-stocked bar which would not look out of place in a trendier city centre wine bar.

The Table Table restaurant at Bentley Green is a bit of a rabbit warren - with each corner leading off to a new seating area making it ideal for people who like to people watch as they eat but also great for people who want to find a little nook or cranny to hide away. On this cold weekday night, most of the table have already been taken up, while reserved signs stand on top of a large number of the others.

Situated next to a Premier Inn hotel and close to junction 10 of the M6, the restaurant welcomes a fair amount of businessmen and women passing through. The low lighting is interrupted only by the glare from the laptops and iPads set up around the place.

In one corner, a lone diner is absorbed in a heavy block of business papers, while at the next table two work colleagues are loudly discussing the events of the day. Tucked away in one of the alcoves is a party of 12 - young and old - who are celebrating a family birthday. At the bar, a petite barmaid is chatting animatedly to a group of regulars who are perched on stools.

The menu at the Table Table restaurant is varied and vast and is almost certain to be able to cater for most tastes.

Starters range from classics such as prawn cocktail and breaded mushrooms to the more continental dough balls dipped in flavoured olive oils. Main courses include your pubs classics such as half a chicken and chips (£7.99) and beef, mushroom and ale pie (£7.99) to pastas and salads and a range of beefburgers.

The starters were delivered promptly by a very polite and attentive waitress called Michelle. The baked camembert, served on a bed of green salad and with a dollop of sweet onion marmalade, proved a good choice. The cheese oozed across the plate and was complimented perfectly by the sharp and tangy accompaniment.

The sticky chicken goujons, also served on top of a green salad, were coated in sweet and sticky marinade.

Main courses were brought to the table within 10 minutes of the starter plates being cleared away.

Bentley Green offers quite a choice of burgers and the burger topped with barbecue sauce and bacon did not disappoint.

It was served with chunky chips, which could have been warmer, and a small salad garnish. A side dish of onion rings were crispy with a light batter.

The chicken mahakini was spicy and filling. It did not arrive as curries usually do, in a silver curry dish, but rather in a plain white bowl which spoiled the look of it somewhat.

It did not spoil the taste though. It was flavoursome and included plenty of chicken and was accompanied by basmati rice and some nice soft naan bread.

Strangely, it was also accompanied by a dollop of potato and chick pea curry that did not sit well with its meatier neighbour and had a strange peppery taste.

Profiteroles were a lovely end to the meal. The four, sweet balls of dough were topped with a fudge sauce rather than the usual chocolate and were served with a small jug of single cream.

With all this coming to £34, including drinks, it makes for the ideal winter warmer.

ADDRESS

Bentley Green: Bentley Road North, Walsall, WS2 0WB

Telephone: 08701 977258

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