The Red Mango, Oldbury

It gets us aroused, stimulates the senses and is said to excite us to such an extent that we're driven into a state of confusion, writes our mystery food reviewer The Insider.

Of course, I'm talking about curry. Just ask the scientists.

You see, if there's one thing I've learnt while penning this column, it's that you lot are a real spicy bunch.

Of all the rave reviews sent my way each week, its the recommendations for balti houses that seem to shout the loudest. Take Ian, from Wolverhampton. He wrote to inform me his girlfriend's family regularly come all the way from Derby to dine at an Indian restaurant in Pleck, Walsall, while the Roache family from Stafford leave the tranquility of their countryside surroundings to pitch up in Birmingham's Balti Belt most weekends.

So it got me thinking, what is it about curries that gets us all hot under the collar? After a bit of research, I found that one study claimed people could actually become addicted to the hot stuff. Apparently, scientists found curries activated several areas of the tongue simultaneously, adding: "We are literally dazzling our taste buds to a state of confusion."

Furthermore, they discovered sitting down for a chicken korma increased heart beats by an extra three beats a minute, a tikka masala by four-and-a-half, and a rogan josh by seven.

So there you have it proof (sort of, others rubbished the research) that we're truly curry connoisseurs. So in a region that is recognised for its wealth of superb samosas, shashlik and shish kebabs, how do our Indian restaurants manage to stand out from the curry crowd?

The place getting the test this week was Red Mango in Oldbury. In a borough that has so many Indian restaurants the council has considered devising a 'curry trail' for tourists, hot spots here really have to pull out all the stops to entice customers in. But something's definitely working at this place a recent satisfied customer was television presenter Justin Lee Collins, who tucked into a lamb tikka jalfrezi after a book signing in Birmingham and enjoyed himself so much he was on first names terms with the staff by the end of the night.

Red Mango was opened in 2006 by Rayhan and Siddika Zoarder, who were inspired by their late father, the owner of the Star of Bengal in Wolverhampton Street, Dudley, to follow in his footsteps.

The siblings said they wanted to "bring a new dining experience to the area without forgetting local people's fondness for the old favourites".

Situated on the edge of a housing estate and with views over the roadwork-ridden, speed camera-crammed Birmingham New Road, it's hardly the most magical of settings.

Inside, however, is a different story. On the left as you walk in is a trendy-looking bar, with comfy sofas to sink into. The back of the bar has glass panels, which has interchanging lights behind it, periodically flashing blue, green, pink and orange. A range of beers, wines and spirits are on offer as well as an array of cocktails, or if you're really celebrating, a selection of Champagne.

As it was 7.30pm on a Thursday, it wasn't a real surprise to find this section empty but I imagine it would be the perfect place to begin birthday celebrations, or even to start off a big night out before jumping on a bus into bustling Brum.

I'm told on Saturday nights there's a DJ playing 70s and 80s music and if large parties come in, they can take over the bar.

The restaurant is separate to the bar, and was probably half full. Deep-red carpets are set against white walls, broken up by bright red and orange panels. There's a bar set against one of the walls, which also has the unusual coloured lighting.

We were greeted with a couple of warm smiles from the staff, led to our table and brought a drink of the biggest bottle of Cobra beer I have ever seen almost immediately.

There was a relaxing vibe that felt a million miles from the chaotic commuter route outside. It appeared to be mainly populated with groups enjoying an after-work meal. Four men with builders' boots on were feasting on a table full of colourful starters, while another smartly-dressed group appeared to be winding down with a bottle of wine after a day in the office. Tucked away in the corner were two girl pals having a very animated conversation and shortly after we sat down, a group of around 10 turned up celebrating a mate's birthday.

Red Mango combines its modern surroundings with traditional and exciting fare. The menu was apparently inspired by the owners' mother's home cooking. True to their word, it is packed full of old classics, but also includes a vast selection of tantalising chefs' recommendations full of interesting choices if diners are feeling a bit more daring.

There's also a good choice of seafood dishes often missed off many Indian menus. My two friends and I ordered the obligatory poppadoms which came with a tray of cool raita, mango chutney and a mystery, tangy sauce and enthusiastically dipped away as if our lives depended on it. Our starters followed: tandoori fish in a spiced marinade that melted in the mouth and tingled when combined with the chilli and lime salad dressing; king prawn poori, almost a meal in itself with loads of succulent spiced prawns stuffed into a soft flat bread and a divine mixed kebab with soft, fresh chicken tikka, lamb tikka and king prawn tikka. They were freshly cooked, nicely presented and despite the generous portions, weren't heavy on the stomach.

Our softly-spoken waiter granted our request for a rest before the main event. Fifteen or 20 minutes later, and following a replenished chutney tray, our mains arrived. One friend who always opts for a mild korma took a walk on the wildside and went for a slightly spicier chicken korai, and judging by the way he demolished it he's a convert. My other companion chose a chicken balti and commented on how fresh it was, the onions rich in flavour and that she could taste all the different ingredients.

My own Goan king prawn was packed full of the juicy king prawns we'd witnessed on the first course, with lashing of hot chillies that sizzled on the tongue. The service was discreet and extremely polite they let us get on with our evening but applied just the right amount of attention. We were left to enjoy another drink and take in our surroundings. Our bill came to just over £50.

I couldn't say for certain whether our heartbeats were raised but our taste buds were suitably dazzled. The fresh cooking by chef Azom Ali is excellent, and combined with pleasing surroundings, friendly staff and reasonable prices makes Red Mango well worth a visit. Prepare to be excited.

ADDRESS

The Red Mango, Birmingham New Road, Oldbury, B69 2JT

Phone: 0121 552 4756

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Red Mango mushroom - mushrooms stuffed with spiced onions and garlic, grilled until tender with a coating of grated cheese and garnished with coriander (£2.95); Paneer Tikka - homemade Indian cheese lightly spiced mint massalla cooked in tandoor (£2.50; Aloo Chop - a South Asian recipe of spicy mashed potato cakes garnished with a crispy salad and yoghurt sauce (£2.50)

MAINS

Shahi Chicken - a rich chicken dish with mushrooms in a thick slightly hot sauce (£6.95); Darjeeling - lamb tikka and chicken tikka in a hot sauce with onions and peppers cooked in spices and coriander (£7.95); Red Mango special biryani - lamb and chicken marinated in a tikka sauce, cooked with basmati rice, onions, garlic and spices. Comes with plain omelette.