Fairlawns Hotel, Aldridge

The American academic Michael Pollen once observed that a lawn is an example of nature under totalitarian rule. If that is the case, the grounds of the Fairlawns Hotel must be a dictator's dream, a despot's delight.

Dining at Fairlawns Hotel and Spa

Little Aston Road, Aldridge, WS9 0NU

Phone: 01922 455122

Set within nine acres of immaculately landscaped gardens, to describe the lawns of this hotel as "fair" is a bit like saying Cyril Smith is fond of his food. A very slight understatement.

Set back from the Little Aston Road in Aldridge, the approach to the Fairlawns has the feel of a semi-rural golf course, or one of those luxury "health clubs" that the celebrities go to when they are feeling down in the dumps. A long, straight tree-lined driveway leads to a slightly confusing choice of car parks, including a small forecourt at the front for new hotel arrivals.

In fact, there actually is a health club at the Fairlawns, as well as the hotel, restaurant and spa, and it is not just any old health club either. According to the Fairlawns promotional literature, the venue includes an "adults only health club", ooh-er missus. Thankfully - or unfortunately, as the case may be - it is essentially a fitness centre for the over-16s, and about as risque as an episode of the Midsomer Murders.

A flight of steps leads up to the main entrance, with an impressive raised patio for people wanting to eat their bar meals al fresco.

Indeed, if we had anything like a reasonable summer, the idea of tucking into one of the reasonably-price brasserie meals on the terrace, enjoying a good bottle of wine while taking in the view over the gardens, would be a most appealing prospect - a sort of like being on holiday, only in Walsall. Unfortunately, outdoor dining is only available at lunchtime, which I think is a shame. Surely there are people who would enjoy watching the sun go down as they eat?

Anyway, if you are planning to eat in the evening, it pays to book in advance, particularly at weekends. When we arrived around 8.20 on a Friday night, the earliest we could be fitted in was nine o'clock. With two AA rosettes, and a kitchen run by Midlands Chef of the Year Neil Atkins, the Fairlawns restaurant is clearly a place in demand.

We decided to relax in the conservatory with our drinks while we waited for our table, and at about 8.50 the maitre d' - a charming young man whose patter was more polished than Barack Obama's - presented us with the menu. Actually, menu does not really do it justice. The neatly-bound volume includes The Fairlawns Selection, which offers two courses and a coffee for £21.50, or three courses plus a hot beverage for £25, the Seasonal Speciality Menu, which is £27.50 for two courses on weekdays, or £34.50 for three courses Monday to Saturday, and then there is the "Best of the Best", an a la carte choice of range of individually-priced seasonal choices. Oh, and don't forget the Sunday lunch and dinner options, and the brasserie luncheons.

Anyway, to cut to the chase, I went for the ribeye of beef in peppercorn sauce from the Fairlawns Selection, opting for chips over the new potatoes, while my dining companion went for a breast of chicken with potato cakes and broccoli.

There must have been a few birthdays in the air if the number of balloons floating from the tables was anything to go by. There were around 60 diners in the restaurant, predominantly in their 40s and 50s.

The restaurant is in a large, modern room, with restrained, formal decor. Large windows along the front of the building, and giant mirrors along the back wall, give a spacious airy feel, while a big pot plant in the middle breaks the room up a bit. The round tables are covered with white linen tablecloths, surrounded by wooden seats with lattice-style backrests.

A waitress brought an ample basket of bread, along with a tray containing butter, olive oil and savoury dip, and we were also given a small pot of tomato soup, compliments of the chef. Not really my thing, but a nice touch. Service was courteous and attentive - the staff really did make an effort to ensure everybody was happy - but occasionally flawed. Someone had forgotten to lay bread plates and knives on the table, forcing us to spread the bread with steak knives. When a waitress realised the oversight, she brought the knives and plates, insisting they were compulsory even though we had finished our bread.

The food itself was, as you would expect given the rosette-winning pedigree, very good, the vegetables in particular being fresh and appropriately cooked. Presentation was immaculate, the four large hand-cut chips elegantly arranged in a criss-cross stack, although if you are looking for hearty portions, you might need to place a side order.

The desserts were pleasant, but not up to the standard of the main course. My companion's chocolate brownie seemed a bit of a triumph of style over substance, with the caramel sauce more effective at decorating the plate than adding flavour, while my three varieties of ice cream were good, but unremarkable.

The total bill came to £48.60, which seems pretty good considering the standard of the meal and the surroundings, although I did baulk a little at the cost of the drinks - £3.30 for a pint of Theakstons, and £2.30 for an orange juice does seem pricey, even for a luxury hotel.

The air conditioning seemed to get rather cold as the night wore on, and I did notice that across the room one of the lights was starting to flicker: No problem for us, but I imagine it must have been pretty infuriating for the people sat beneath it. Of course, I am splitting hairs a bit here, and if you do decide visit, the chances are you won't regret it. It does make you question Mr Pollen's philosophy on lawns though. I mean, would a true totalitarian stand for a faulty light bulb?

Fairlawns selection

Starters

Melon and ginger sorbet, warm salad of avocado, with blue stilton and walnuts or butternut squash soup.

Mains courses

Grilled fillet of lemon sole, pot roast blade of local beef, braised lamb shoulder noisette or home-made pasta, spinach and watercress cream, with goats cheese.

Sweets

Home-made puddings, ice creams or a platter of English cheeses.

Seasonal speciality

Starters

Creamed celeriac soup, with light tandoori spices, Seasonal melon, Seared tuna in sesame, crisp oriental salad and risotto of Italian grilled cepes and butter fried girolles

Main courses

Pan fried fillet of sea bass, roast turbot, duo of Shropshire lamb, slow cooked breast and rack, or dry aged sirloin steak.

Sweets

Choice of desserts, British farmhouse cheeses and coffees.