The Hollybush, Trysull

As more and more pubs and restaurants call last orders on trading, it seems customers looking for somewhere good to eat are left with increasingly meagre choices,

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Sadly, recent weeks have seen the closure of what were highly regarded venues in Seisdon and Wombourne.

So, on a chilly Thursday evening, it was with a sense of relief that my partner and I pulled on to the car park of the Hollybush, Trysull, to find the venue bustling with visitors.

After all, this is a pub/restaurant which has been given a second breath of life, after closing abruptly in 2008 and then reopening after a complete overhaul slightly more than 18 months ago.

And, as co-owner Julie Carey served us with a perfect temperature merlot, one look at the menu and its reasonable prices (mains from £9 up to £18.90 for sirloin steak) seemed to confirm why this pub continues to be a success.

Feeling the need for seafood following the carnivorous excess over the festive season, I opted for mussels cooked in a mildly spiced curry sauce served with crusty granary bread followed by fish pie, prepared with succulent chunks of smoked haddock and a cheesy gratin topping.

My partner opted for the powerful yet well balanced flavours of the roquefort and leek tart, with deliciously tender roasted lamb shank and rosemary for the main. Both mains came served with an assortment of seasonal vegetables and creamy mashed potato.

It's the details that make the Hollybush stand out, from fresh flowers in vases through to the passion which everyone working here clearly has for great food and attentive, efficient service.

Nor does the venue feel aloof. In fact, it's not unusual to see a group of farmers relaxing with a drink after a day's work in the nearby fields, while smartly-dressed diners show up to enjoy head chef Anthony Scott's extensive menu.

For dessert, my partner offered little resistance against Bailey's crème brulee. And, it was every bit as indulgent as its name suggests, the caramelised surface cracking to reveal a steaming whisky cream confection beneath. A homemade shortcake biscuit added to the opulence.

Managing to deny this dessert's charms, I opted for vanilla panna cotta drizzled with a fruit reduction - a winning combination of sweet creaminess and bite.

Two (freshly-brewed) coffees followed, served with real cream and brown sugar cubes.

It was a superb meal and one which proves that delicious, fresh food is still available locally, despite the alarming loss of several quality venues in recent weeks.

Regular events throughout the year, such as clay pigeon shoots every alternate Sunday, quiz nights and pig roasts, help to establish the pub/restaurant as being at the core of its community. Long may it continue.

ADDRESS

The Hollybush, Ebstree Road, Trysull, Wolverhampton, WV5 7JE

Telephone: 01902 326249