The Lyttelton Arms, Hagley - A lyttel piece of foodie heaven

You can get home from a tough day at the office, kick off your shoes, get dressed up and forget about cooking for the evening. Absolute bliss.

The only thing you do have to do is decide upon your dining destination. This was easy. I've heard good things about the food at The Lyttelton Arms so that was to be the choice for the evening out and I was hoping it wouldn't disappoint.

The pub is nestled out of the way in Hagley. The building, as it stands today, dates back only six years ago after it was burned down in December 2007. Some of the older parts of the building are still intact but others were completely destroyed by the severe blaze. The original building has links to the Lyttelton family who owned Hagley Hall back in the 1700s.

As we pulled up to the restaurant there is sizeable patio area flanking the main entrance. Umbrellas top off the tables making it perfect for a long summer evening in the sun or shade to sup on a pint or sip a glass of wine. Inside you are met with a vast modern style open-plan bar and dining area. There is soft lighting, big brass-framed mirrors, bulky oak beams, and a rough and outdoorsy looking seagrass carpet.

Big homely, chunky wooden tables give it a farmhouse kitchen feel. The decoration is a mix of bright and muted tones with the dining area opulent magenta, duck egg blue and reds and softer shades of subtle pale sage green. The large spacious design creates a light and airy ambience but the tables are discreetly separated by heavy wooden furniture giving an air of intimacy as well. The bar and lounge seating is tucked away from the dining section and is decorated in earthy tones, browns, creams and terracotta. The log fire, which would be delightful in winter, is the focal point of the more informal area where cushions line the seats offering a snug and laid back mood.

It is more than just a pub and restaurant, it is classy and refined. Paintings of fine fellows in their hunting gear adorn the walls giving the place a 'what ho' vibe much like some of the clientele that were eating. There was a mix of families, couples, friends meeting up with patrons of all ages enjoying their food and drink. The chirrup of chatter filled the air along with the clinking of glasses and the clatter of cutlery from hungry diners. It was bustling yet relaxed.

Head chef Daniel Bentley is at the kitchen's helm. He apparently got into cooking after watching cookery programmes from a young age and liked the idea of being creative start to finish. His motivation now lies in the adrenaline buzz he gets from a busy restaurant and the pleasure of speaking with guests that have enjoyed their experience. Something I was keen to embark on.

An uber cool young man seated us at a cosy table away from the busy bar area. Thankfully he thawed a little as the evening progressed. I can't fault how attentive the waiting staff were throughout the evening without being intrusive or aggressive like you get at so many restaurants. They were chatty and keen to answer any questions about the menu.

The sparkle of candlelight cast a soft and warm glow over each table adding a touch of romance to the evening. I chose a glass of the smooth fruity Argentine Malbec rose wine from the extensive menu. After studying it at great length – I love a nice glass of vino – we discovered it even included some English choices; a white wine from the Denbies vineyard in Surrey and a sparkling wine from Ridgeview in the South Downs. The rose was delicious, not too sweet and not too dry. It was described as being full of fresh red berries soft cherry flavour and hint of melon... I'm no wine connoisseur but it was certainly very fruity. The wine was accompanied by refreshing water served from a large, sturdy bottle into glasses full of ice and a zesty wedge of lime.

Mr Cool pointed out the specials menu and there was also an option of a fixed price menu. Now, where to start. The menu has a good selection of starters and includes several dishes to share but I was feeling greedy and decided on the mushroom brioche which was out of this world. Finely sliced tasty mushrooms were swimming in a light and creamy sauce placed on a toasted brioche which soaked up the sauce beautifully. The dish was garnished with pea shoots and a dusting of paprika which gave it a little kick. The only thing missing was an extra piece of brioche to mop up the remaining sauce.

For my other half it was the arancini breaded risotto balls. The three-grain crispy risotto balls were covered in light and golden breadcrumbs and filled with mozzarella, which was nicely melted. Roasted sweet peppers complemented the cheese and a fiery green chilli mayonnaise was served on the side. My eager-eyed partner pondered over the fact there should have been four balls instead of three. A comment he later retracted after admitting that his eyes were so much bigger than his belly.

The main course menu has an unusual mix of food. There is pizza and pasta for the Italian lovers, but the dishes aren't the bog standard recipes. The pizzas include one with tiger prawns, courgettes and chillies as a topping and another with Italian sausage, chorizo, pepperoni and chicken. For the pasta dishes there is a slow-cooked pork lasagne and pasta parcels of scallop and prawn with a tomato and saffron sauce. There are more traditional dishes such as pies, and steaks along with a fair few fish options.

My partner in food crime chose the Stove of the Day which sounds hearty, homely, warm and filling and it didn't disappoint. It was beef Wellington with fondant potato, wilted spinach and red wine and venison jus. The fillet of beef was encased in its own individual buttery flaky pastry parcel which tasted light and floaty. After a minor struggle cutting the perfectly pink beef he requested a steak knife which was swiftly delivered with an apology. I went for the chicken, leek and Applewood cheese pie. It was packed full of tender pieces of chicken in a rich cheese sauce with buttery puff pastry which melted the instant it hit my tongue. The lemon thyme mash was fluffy and light but could have been a tiny bit creamier. All in all it was totally scrumptious. For a vegetable side dish it had to be the green and broad beans with mint butter which were seasoned perfectly. A fine scattering of salt was sprinkled over the fine beans which were full of crunch and the sliced broad beans were soft and fluffy. After our delectable feast we took a breather waiting for our food to settle and find space for the much anticipated, and my personal favourite part of any meal, dessert.

There was an appealing selection to choose from but it was obvious for both us which ones we were going to indulge in. The Belgian white chocolate brulee for him and for me, I fell in love with the sound of the choux bun with chantilly cream, wild fruit compote and caramel sauce from the specials menu. When it was presented in front of me my jaw nearly hit the floor it looked like a plate of complete and utter heaven. I was deliriously happy for the entire time I was eating it. The super sweet caramel sauce complemented the sour wild berry compote which was bursting with zing. Juicy bright strawberries added a colourful, and a healthy little finishing touch. The cream was gorgeously sweet, light and fluffy. Once my companion had broken through the perfect caramelised topping, the creme brulee was sublime, light and really creamy.

We couldn't have devoured another morsel of food and we were saved by the bill. It proved that the Lyttelton is more than just everyday pub grub. At around £72 for our divine banquet, it was pretty reasonable for the high quality of food. But every silver lining has a cloud, while the food was sensational, by the end of the evening my other half was complaining he was uncomfortable. Despite the furniture looking good, the hard wooden seat had been cutting into his legs. I was content as mine was cushioned.

After a gargantuan three courses, and full to bursting we left smiling and satisfied, hoping to return again soon, and ready to sleep, with me dreaming about that enormous choux bun.

Four stars

By Lisa Williams