The Six Ashes, Bobbington

Our

enjoys a combination of high-quality meals and five-star service from the friendly staff at The Six Ashes, Bobbington.

I suppose if I were a sensible restaurant writer I would tell you how chef Stuart Plant learned his craft under the watchful eye of Gary Rhodes. Or I could tell you about his two AA rosettes, or his appearance in the Michelin guide.

But I suspect if I did, I would not be the first to do so. So instead I am going to cover a subject I'm fairly confident nobody else will have tackled.

The paper-towel dispenser in the gents.

I know it is probably not your top priority, and you might, with some justification, tell me I should get out more. But when it comes to drying your hands in the ultimate style, this electrically-powered beauty really is the business.

No fumbling with a loose piece of fabric hanging from an ugly and unhygienic contraption bolted to the wall, no need to forcefully shake your hands under the electronic eye of an automatic hand drier which seems to have picked up a spot of myopia.

No, just one touch and an electric motor whirrs into action, despatching a crisp, uncreased paper towel like a turbocharged fax machine.

Now you might think I am easily pleased, and you might argue that you really don't go out for a meal to enjoy the ultimate hand-drying experience, but ask yourself this: How often does the place where the hand-drying facility consists of a dirty rag hanging out of a broken towel dispenser serve up a top-notch meal? Do you think somebody who can't even be bothered to keep the washroom clean and tidy is going to go the extra mile with the boeuf bourguignon?

By their washrooms shall we know them.

And the impressive piece of equipment at The Six Ashes serves as a very telling indication of the attention to detail that Plant has put into the pub since he took over earlier this year.

No bulk orders from the cash and carry here. The pork is sourced from Suffolk, where it is known for its gentle, sweet flavour. The lamb comes from the south-west of England, where the warmer climate ensures consistency of flavour.

Set back from the Bridgnorth-Stourbridge road, The Six Ashes is easy to find, and with its attractively landscaped gardens, it makes for quite an idyllic setting. The outdoor benches, separated from the road by a glorious shock of bright red flowers, would no doubt have been a beautiful place to be during last weekend's mini-heatwave. How disappointing it was damp and overcast when we called in.

The car park lets it down a little, though, looking a touch shabby and located across the road from the pub. There are a few spaces along a service lane leading to the rear of the pub, and these would be suited to wheelchair users, but there are no markings to suggest you are allowed to park here.

We were greeted on arrival by a very friendly young waitress, who even apologised for the fact that the two of us would have to sit on a table of four.

"We've had a lot of bookings for tables of two," she explained.

An elderly couple were just leaving as we arrived, with a young family to our left and a couple aged about 30 to the right, with another couple taking a seat by the window as the night wore on.

While the main body of the pub is very much the warm and inviting country local – you could easily be in lounge of Emmerdale's Woolpack – the restaurant is a much smaller room at the side, with a small window at the end, and an extractor fan in the middle.

While it was nicely finished, and the tables beautifully laid with elegant candles, coffee-coloured cloth napkins and quality cutlery, I did think the room was a little austere and a touch claustrophobic.

Plant's philosophy is that "formality and image are far less important than quality, taste and a great atmosphere", and I certainly wouldn't argue with that, but I do think, say, a few paintings by local artists on the walls would create a more personal ambience, and add to the atmosphere. Likewise, a few good quality mirrors would create a more spacious feel, and compensate for the lack of natural light.

There's no faulting the warmth of the welcome, though. The two young ladies who were waiting on the tables really could not have been any more helpful, and what's more, gave the impression they actually enjoyed helping people.

Quality rather than quantity is the watchword with the menu. With only six main courses on offer – two of them steak – the choice is not vast, but then when you see how much care has gone into each option, you just know it is going to be good whatever you go for.

From the Mediterranean flair of the potato gnocchi, baked with cherry tomatoes, baby mozzarella, basil, cream and Parmesan, to the more homespun charms of the corned beef hash and fried egg served with home-made brown sauce, every item on the menu sounds like a work of art.

Everything is exactly as it says on the card, mind. So if you are expecting a bowl of vegetables or mash to come with your Moroccan spiced lamb, you will have to buy a side order.

What is beyond doubt though, is that what you do get is totally exquisite. The ribeye seemed much larger than its 10oz, and with its soft, marbled texture, it was packed with flavour and was tender to the touch. The rich, creamy pepper sauce, seasoned with an array of spices, had clearly been made with love and care, and the thick, golden, triple-cooked chips were superb.

Likewise, the Cornish cod, which had only left the boat the day before, which was coated in a crisp, golden homemade beer batter, and served with those very same glorious chips. It is really is hard to find much to criticise.

To finish, I had an excellent homemade coffee ice cream, while my companion had a beautifully made creme brulee.

The total bill, with a pint of Boondoggle bitter, a half of Banks's mild, a glass of house red and couple of coffees came to £57.75, but of course this would have been more had we had starters and a bottle.

If you want good food, though, you have to pay for it, and my only real criticism is the slightly stark dining room.

The Six Ashes offers superb food, first-rate service, and the king of hand-driers. What's not to like?

ADDRESS

The Six Ashes, Six Ashes Road, Bobbington WV15 6EJ

Tel: 01384 221725

Web: www.the-sixashes.co.uk

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Jerusalem artichoke soup and white truffle oil (£4.95); Corned beef hash, fried egg, homemade brown sauce (£6.95); Last of the season local asparagus, chopped local duck egg (£5.95)

MAINS

Rare French-style bistro steak, shallot puree, French fries, shallot and red wine sauce (£12.95); Sous-vide cooked Moroccan spiced lamb, aubergine couscous, garlic spinach, lamb jus (£15.95); Potato gnocchi baked with cherry tomatoes, baby mozzarella, basil, cream and Parmesan (£13.95); Roast sea bass, Cornish crab, crushed Jersey royals, French-style peas (£15.95)

DESSERTS

Dark chocolate delice, peanut butter ice cream, salted brittle and milk shake (£6.95); Poached rhubarb, strawberry soup, honey custard, elderflower jelly (£5.95); Selection of fine local cheese, fruitcake, apples, homemade chutney (£6.95)