Inside one of Birmingham’s most luxurious stores where the Crown Jeweller creates bespoke items for customers

So far as jobs in the jewellery trade go, it’s hard to imagine landing a more prestigious role.

I’m at the huge new Mappin & Webb showroom which has just opened in Birmingham city centre - and Crown Jeweller Mark Appleby is in town.

Mark is the tenth Crown Jeweller since the role was created by Queen Victoria in 1843.

It’s his job to maintain the UK’s world famous Crown Jewels, which are kept in the Tower of London - and some pieces are still worn today on very special occasions in the UK by our monarchy.

He was appointed by Queen Elizabeth II in 2012 and carries out this role alongside his job as Director of Jewellery Services for Mappin & Webb.

He has travelled up to Birmingham to celebrate the opening of Mappin & Webb’s new showroom on New Street which marks the watch and jewellery company’s exciting return to the city after 20 years.

The company, dating back to 1775, is part of the Watches of Switzerland Group, which, you may remember, had a store in the Piccadilly Arcade on New Street underneath the Burlington Hotel.

Mappin & Webb is in the same spot - with a much bigger floorspace and some fabulous jewels from a host of incredible brands alongside Mappin & Webb.

There’s a dedicated Rolex area, with a separate Rolex Certified Pre-Owned section, alongside beautiful items from IWC Schaffhausen, Jaeger-LeCoultre, TAG Heuer, and Tudor.

The collections also include jewellery from one of America’s most innovative fine jewellery designers, David Yurman which is exclusive to the Watches of Switzerland Group. Venetian jeweller Roberto Coin is also present alongside Mappin & Webb’s own cherished fine jewellery collections.

The beautiful showroom also has its own bar, private consultation areas and statement chandelier - and you can book an appointment with Mark to design your own bespoke jewellery!

It’s difficult to imagine a more luxurious service. I also discovered a treasure trove of stories all about the Crown Jewels and how they are looked after on my visit - and a little insight into that bespoke service that the Crown Jeweller can offer.

“The honour was bestowed upon Mappin & Webb in 2012. It’s the pinnacle of any jeweller’s career. You’re at some of the most spectacular ceremonies where the Crown Jewels are worn in public. It’s a real pinch yourself moment every single time.

“I have to keep my feet firmly on the ground, though. I’m known as the Crown Jeweller, but I am still Mark the jeweller. I make, repair and restore jewellery.

“I just enjoy the fact that we are able to work on such unique, immense, historic pieces.”

One of the most recent occasions which Mark has attended is the Royal Maundy service which was held at St Asaph Cathedral in Wales.

The ancient Church of England Ceremony held the day before Good Friday sees the King distribute specially minted silver coins to local people in recognition of their service to the church and community.

“Each year we remove the Maundy Plates from the collection, and they travel to where the ceremony takes place,” Mark said.

One of the most significant displays of the Crown Jewels in recent times was at King Charles’ III Coronation in May 2023.

It was a huge responsibility for the Crown Jeweller and Mark explains how some of the preparations went.

“There was a lot of planning and thought ahead of the ceremony. The three crowns worn at the Coronation needed to be modified. It was our job to enlarge two of the crowns and completely modify the crown for Queen Camilla.

“We had to use the experience to work out how these items were made way back when so that we could apply the best techniques to ensure the work was completed so that no one would know it was done - apart from the people looking back in history to understand that Mappin & Webb did all of these modifications.

“It was the first time in 70 years that we had a new monarch so these were significant changes that were made to the some of the Crown Jewels ”

There’s a lot of mystery surrounding the Crown Jewels and Mark was pleased to explain how the Coronation helped to bust the biggest one - which concerns people not believing that the Crown Jewels are actually real!

“One of the questions that I get asked more than any other is - are they real,” Mark said.

“I assure everyone who asks if these items are the real thing that the answer is 100%, yes. I think the biggest testament for that was the coronation in 2023, when I would have said between 60% and 70% of what normally sits in the Tower of London was at Westminster Abbey.

“So many people paid to go to the Tower of London to see if they were there during this time.

“They weren't disappointed because when they walked around the Jewel House they soon discovered that over half the collection wasn't there because it was in place at Westminster Abbey ready for Coronation.

So how does the Crown Jeweller go about ensuring his craftsmanship is up to scratch?

“With the experience, I have to understand how some of this 400 year-old jewellery was put together,” Mark said.

“I began learning the trade from an early age and it really helped me and my colleagues to understand how to look after these prestigious pieces.

“The craftsmanship that was used four centuries ago is still relevant today. Whenever we work on the Crown Jewel pieces we always look back to the craftsmanship from those days. “But there is an element of blending. There’s a really good mix these days of modern techniques used in the repair and restoration of this side of the trade.”

The Jewellery Quarter in Birmingham is where 40% of the UK’s jewellery is created and it was awarded the prestigious World Craft City status last year - so it’s no wonder that the expertise of our local jewellers is called upon at times.

“We do collaborate with many Birmingham manufacturers, designers and diamond dealers. “We’re regularly in contact with the Jewellery Quarter, especially through my role in the Mappin & Webb jewellery workshop back in London.

“I’ve never worked in the Jewellery Quarter myself, but I know a lot about it as we work closely with the jewellers through our work at Hatton Garden, which is the London equivalent.

“I am available to meet clients at our Birmingham showroom. Our teams here can invite clients to meet with me to discuss their jewellery requirementsI make our clients jewellery ideas and aspirations become a reality, This is after I have personally met them through a private consultation which has been arranged via our expert sales consultants.

Our clients get the chance to understand in more detail my role as Crown Jeweller. As well as being able to relax and go through all options of their specific jewellery desires.

“As these private special commissions are very individual, it gives me a sense of pride to connect with our clients in writing them a personal letter about our meeting and a detailed resume about their one-off item of jewellery that I have crafted back in our London Jewellery Workshop.

“Most recently we have been able to help some great clients at Birmingham when I visited about a month or so ago.

As well as clients in Birmingham, Mark has worked on bespoke jewellery for people all over the UK and the world.”

But has anyone asked him to recreate the Crown Jewels?

Laughing, Mark admits that he has been asked for similar items - but, of course, the Crown Jewels can never be replicated.

“We always try to do our best for our clients. Headpieces can be popular, especially tiaras. It’s a bespoke service and we are very proud to offer such a high level of craftsmanship to produce truly unique jewellery.”