Yorkshireman, Rugeley

Rugeley has little in the way of a cheery past -Palmer the Poisoner, The Bloody Steps - neither is it the gastro-capital of Staffordshire. But it does have one or two decent pubs.

The Yorkshireman, Rugeley

Rugeley has little in the way of a cheery past -Palmer the Poisoner, The Bloody Steps - neither is it the gastro-capital of Staffordshire.

But it does have one or two decent pubs, one of which sits about half a mile outside the town centre.

The Yorkshireman has seen landlords and chefs come and go but you could almost always guarantee being fed a good meal there. Then, a year ago, the pub closed quite suddenly, and remained so until last month.

There were rumours flying around about poor service and over-inflated prices so I decided to check the place out for myself. And it has certainly changed its image - the interior has gone from traditional edge-of-town inn to restaurant-style chic.

Now, it could be said that the menu is a little pricey for a pub. But, once inside, you do feel as though you've entered a classy restaurant. The service is polite and attentive and, on the evening of my visit, every table was full.

The menu had tempting choices such as chicken liver and stout pate, and smoked haddock bake with tomato rarebit among the starters.

I chose the maris piper and watercress soup with a Stilton croute, but was informed, with an apology, that it had changed to parsnip soup with parsnip crisps. I'm not a fan of the vegetable so I opted for the sautéed seasonal mushrooms, at £4.

These delicious mixed pickings were lightly cooked in butter and piled on top of a warm toasted brioche scented with garlic and served with salad leaves and a sweet dijon dressing.

My dining partner chose the very chunky butternut squash and melon salad with port syrup, £3.50.

He followed this with pan fried halloumi cheese on courgette, garlic and thyme provencale, priced £8, while I chose the 'posh' fish and chips - battered medallions of monkfish with salt and vinegar, Hollandaise and real chips, £13.

There was plenty to eat and we struggled to clear our plates, especially as we'd added another portion of chips, £2, and a panache of seasonal vegetables, £2, to our order.

Among the desserts were warm bitter chocolate and vanilla tart, apricot and whisky bread and butter pudding, or poached pear in orange and ginger beer, and prices started at £3.

ADDRESS

The Yorkshireman, Colton Road, Rugeley

Tel: 01889 583977

By Debbie Bennett