Food review: How a steakhouse lives up to the legendary singer's quote adorning its wall

“One of the nicest things about life,” it read, “is the way we must regularly stop whatever it is we are doing and devote our attention to eating.”

The legendary Italian opera singer had a point, of course. We do need to eat.

However, it can vary as to whether that’s a pleasurable experience or not. My own attempts in the kitchen can be hit-and-miss to say the least!

So would The Trooper be able to cut mustard on this occasion?

Setting-wise, the pub, described as Staffordshire’s Premier Steakhouse on its website, certainly impressed.

Positioned squarely on Watling Street, it is a stone’s throw away from the old Roman Letocetum and has views towards the beautiful village of Wall.

Clearly, though, it’s not a hidden gem. The car park was full as we arrived for a 7pm table reservation.

The bar area was heaving – always a good sign and, though the restaurant area was quiet on our arrival, by the time we left after our meal, every table was full. There’s no bigger endorsement of a hospitality venue than the number of people who choose to dine there.

Before perusing the menu, we enjoyed drinks. I am a man of simple tastes on that score so a pint of Estrella went down well.

But, while there is as an extensive range of alcoholic drinks, there are some great mocktails on offer for those designated drivers who don’t want to be restricted to a Diet Coke.