Food review: The Wayfarer, Stone, Staffordshire

Great food, superb company and a terrific atmosphere. Who could want more from a meal out?

The Wayfarer certainly meets the criteria. It is a must-see for all you food-loving readers out there.

It had been well over a year since my last visit and I recalled it being rather good. I was very much looking forward to another three courses of fabulous food.

I arrived with my partner Mandy around 6.45pm. If you do want to visit, make sure you book as this place seems to be full at any time of day.

Arriving pretty much to the minute we were booked in for, a polite young gentleman greeted us and escorted us through to the dining room where our table awaited.

The Wayfarer manages to pull off something that so many other restaurants don't quite manage. On both occasions that I have dined there it has felt so private. So intimate.

A clever use of lighting targets each table. The room is practically in darkness, other than the pools of illumination at each cover.

So, as long as you don't mind mood lighting – which I certainly don't – this is the place for you.

Our drinks order was taken at the table. I have become rather fond of gin and tonic of late. I asked if they had my current favourite tipple – rhubarb and ginger.

Alas no, but I was offered an intriguing alternative – nlueberry gin. Ooh. Sounded good to me. And good it was. A delicious crisp gin with blueberry flavour. Try it gin-lovers. It is a winner.

Mandy, true to form, indulged in a fruit-packed Pims and lemonade.

The menu is extensive and choosing a starter wasn't easy. Eventually I settled on smoked mackerel fishcakes with chilli lemongrass and soy dip (£6.75). Beautiful in texture and taste, these rich fishcakes pack a punch. A wonderful starter – but not as good as Mandy's. The other half had chosen well.

A starter of mussels poached in Thai green broth with garlic flatbread (£6.45) was stunning. Plump seafood in a rich, deep sauce. Absolutely heavenly. Starters dispensed with, on to the main event.

Mandy opted for the baked salmon fillet (£14.95). The good-sized piece of fish came with steamed mussels, linguine pasta, samphire, white wine and saffron sauce with tomato and red pepper concasse. It proved to be a lovely combination.

I do enjoy salmon, but on this night I was in need of something meatier.

The pan-seared Gressingham duck breast (£15.95) beckoned.

The meat is served pink unless you ask for it to be cooked longer. Pink is fine by me.

Accompanying the beautifully cooked duck was a delicious combination of savoy cabbage, sauteed new potatoes, parsnip puree, redcurrant sauce and parsnip crisps. I do enjoy duck and this was certainly up there with other meals I have enjoyed.

When it came to desserts it was somewhat inevitable that Mandy would choose something chocolatey. Bring on the Bailey's mocha cheesecake with chocolate biscuits (£5.95). Very tasty, I am told (I never stood a chance of a taste).

I prefer fruity puddings and my choice of passionfruit bavarois, blueberry compote and raspberry sorbet (£6.45) was spot-on.

We'd enjoyed a beautiful meal in a packed, yet somehow private restaurant.

Following the meal we made our way to the bar area and relaxed in the buzz of folk – some who had already eaten, others about to dine. Lucky devils.

The Wayfarer is certainly one of my top 10 places to eat out in and around Stafford.

If you enjoy good food, turn to the dark side and make way for a taste sensation. You'll love it.

By Paul Naylor