The Manor Arms, Rushall

This week's Insider is an award-winner. Rather topical, one thought, given the various star-studded ceremonies that have taken place in recent weeks.

Not a day seems to go by that I don't turn my television on to see an actress blubbing or a popstar posturing from a glittering stage.

Why cry about it? They know from the second their name is called the millions will simply keep rolling in. I heard that after this week's Brit Awards, record sales of winners including Duffy and Girls Aloud soared within seconds of them walking off clutching their Britannia statues.

So after hearing about the award bestowed on The Manor Arms in Rushall, Walsall, I wondered if that too would be wearing it like a badge of honour, ready to cash in on the accolade.

The pub in Park Road was named best waterside pub in the UK by British Waterways last month - beating off competition from hundreds of idyllic spots across the country.

It was chosen for its location and popularity with customers, with judges saying it was regularly packed with ramblers, cyclists and narrowboat users.

When the satellite navigation system informed us we had reached our destination, we stopped outside a pub.

With signs boasting about food deals and live music, it was actually the Manor Arms louder next door neighbour, The Royal Oak, we had arrived at.

Our true destination was tucked away a bit further down the road, nestled unassumingly at the entrance to the Lime Pits Nature Reserve.

Far from loudly proclaiming its newfound award-winning status, there was nothing whatsoever to initially suggest this was one of the best pubs in the country. And that, readers, is precisely The Manor Arms' charm.

Modest but welcoming, the self-effacing nature of this historic watering hole is what has kept customers returning over hundreds of years.

It is rumoured the pub dates back to 1104 and may have been inhabited by monks. But historians say while entertaining, these are simply local legends.

In fact, they say the building is largely made of 18th Century red brick and modern roughcast, but contains stone from a previous structure dating from the 15th and 16th centuries.

It did not operate as a pub until Victorian times.

The building was in use as a farmhouse until its owners, the Anson family, opened their front room as a beerhouse towards the end of the 19th Century.

John Anson would sell beer to boatmen who passed in their narrowboats on the canal that runs alongside it.

The family first gained a full publican's license in about 1895, after which the trade directories begin to list the Manor Arms as a public house.

Another fascinating fact about The Manor Arms is that it is a pub without a bar. Drinks are served from the back of the timber-beamed main room, which is largely populated by the regulars who have no need to get off their chairs when they require a refill of their real ales.

Customers stand at a doorway, adjacent to the drinks display, and rest on a tiny ledge while waiting for their order.

During my visit, on a Thursday at around 1pm, there was a healthy clientele sitting on the well-worn seats.

As I waited for a pint of Stella and orange and soda (£2.75 and 50p), the banter in the main room was mainly coming from one regular who was reminscing about his days in the Staffords.

There was around four gents sat quietly sipping their real ales - another selling point of the Manor Arms. Member of The Campaign for Real Ale are fans of this spot thanks to its ever-changing selection of beers. During my visit I spotted Banks's Bitter and Original, Breakspear's Pride of the River, Jenny's Cockahoop, Ringwood Pumper and Ringwood Porter.

We chose a small table for two in the lounge. To our right, a family of three were tucking into hearty meals and behind us, three chatty pensioners were enjoying a get-together. It was clearly a regular meet, since they all addressed the barmaid by name. "I bet their Sunday lunches are massive," breathed one visibly stuffed customer, giving us an inkling of what was about to come.

A quick glance at the menu told us we weren't going to be served gourmet cuisine. It's just good, home-cooked grub on offer here - and lots of it.

I ordered Banks's ale and steak pie (£5.50) which came on a huge plate, packed with mashed potato, garden peas and swimming in gravy. It was delicious, wonderful comfort food, and reminded me what my grandmother used to rustle up when I was a child.

My companion chose steak in a bun, which came with onion rings (£4.50).

Cooked medium to rare, my friend said on reflection he should have gone for well-done as it didn't quite have the flavour he'd hoped for. Nevertheless he wolfed it down and thoroughly enjoyed the onion rings.

The pudding menu was equally as classic, including old favourites apple pie, jam sponge and bread and butter pudding. I can tell you the apple pie is divine, packed full and fruit and drizzled with creamy custard. According to the old man in the corner, the jam sponge does the job too. Our bill came to £15.75 for two main coursess, two drinks and one pudding.

As the group of three left their table, one twinkly-eyed fellow smiled at me and said goodbye as he walked past - thus typifying what makes this pub so special.

Without much effort at all, it manages to make you feel like one of the family.

As we left we took a short walk into the nature reserve and along the canal, finishing off a very nice afternoon indeed.

And on the way out I searched for a plaque, a frame - anything that was proclaiming it as an award-winner.

I'm sure it's there somewhere, but frankly it really doesn't need to shout about its success, this pub should remain a winner for quite some time.

The Manor Arms

Park Road,

Rushall, Walsall

Phone: 01922 642333

Chicken curry served with chips or rice - £5.50

Chilli con carne with chips or rice - £5.50

8oz gammon and chips with egg or pineapple - £6.50

6oz rump steak with chips, vegetables or salad - £6.25