Biba's Barbara lives and breathes fashion

Sixties fashion icon Barbara Hulanicki is forever keeping an eye on style – even when it virtually disappears under a graduation gown.

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wd3026307.jpgSixties fashion icon Barbara Hulanicki is forever keeping an eye on style – even when it virtually disappears under a graduation gown.

The woman who created Biba – a fashion label and a lifestyle – lives and breathes style, whether it is clothing, accessories or home interiors.

And during her first visit to Wolverhampton, to receive an honorary degree from the city's university, she cannot help but gaze at the graduation students' choice of footwear and hairstyles.

"There was one young girl wearing a pair of pink heels with her gown. How fantastic," smiles Barbara.

"I was watching them as they made their way to the stage. I could just about see their footwear popping out under their gowns. They looked great.

"But I did notice a few of the boys appeared to be wearing scruffy shoes," she laughs.

Fashion lecturers at the university were thrilled Barbara accepted the Honorary Degree of Doctor of Design.

"She is such an international icon," said Sharon Watts, senior textiles lecturer at Wolverhampton University's School of Art and Design.

"We are delighted Barbara has joined us and hope it will be the start of great relationship with the university."

Back in the 1960s, Biba defined the decade as much as mini-skirts and Mini cars.

"Those were the days," beams Barbara.

"It was a great time. People had fun and it was so relaxing. Everything came from the heart."

Barbara and her late husband Stephen Fitz-Simon started the iconic Biba as a mail order company in 1963 before opening their first boutique in London.

Soon afterwards she opened the legendary five-storey Biba department store on Kensington High Street – famed for its stylishly decadent atmosphere and lavish decor, like its leopard skin sofas.

But it was not just a department store. It was a spectacular theme park of shopping, eating, drinking and hanging out. It revolutionised fashion and style.

And it was not just about gladrags for girls. In addition to a cosmetics range, there was also home accessories, mens/childrenswear and a Biba food hall.

It became a hangout for rock stars and film stars, including Mick Jagger and the Rolling Stones, Freddie Mercury, Twiggy and Cathy McGowan of Ready, Steady, Go!

But the store was never simply for the rich and famous. It combined couture with affordability.

"We opened the store out of necessity," says septuagenarian Barbara.

"There really wasn't any affordable individual fashion back then," she says.

"We played loud music in the store so it was very rock and roll and a great place for the young girls and guys to hangout."

When Biba closed its doors in 1975, Barbara continued to work in the fashion industry before re-inventing herself as an interior/exterior designer in Miami.

"I went over there to do a nightclub for Ronnie Wood. I planned to stay there six months and 20 years later I'm still there," she laughs.

She has also designed accessories for the Victoria and Albert Museum and more recently designed wallpaper, rugs and pillows for Habitat. Barbara returns to England every two to three months and admits she is excited about the nation's high-street fashion.

"I think the high street stores here are incredible. There just isn't the variety when it comes to fashion in America.

"But there is so much individuality in the shops here. I think they are tremendous and I particularly like Topshop," she says.

As for her own style, Barbara says she sticks to wearing black.

"It's very lazy but it's so easy to match black with black," she laughs. And she is not one for hats. "I hate having anything on my head," she says as she poses for a picture in her graduation gown.

"So no, I'm not going to wear this cap," she laughs.

But she said she was thrilled to receive the honorary degree.

"I've never received such an honour before. I'm delighted to be here."

Although in her early seventies, Barbara has no desire to slow down.

"I'll retire when I die," she laughs. "I love this work, always have done."

And we could soon be seeing a lot more of her. "I'm just about to sign a fashion deal in England. I can't say any more at the moment – but watch this space."

By Maria Cusine.