Express & Star

Holidays: The play's the thing . . .

Shakespeare's finest, a romantic dinner out or a lazy stroll by the river, Stratford-Upon-Avon is the perfect place for a relaxing weekend away, says Elizabeth Joyce.

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Pound shops on every high street, TV channels cluttered with reality shows and magazines overflowing with D-list celebs so obscure even Alicia Douvall would say "Who?"

Just where has all our culture gone? Now, that is the question.

The answer is Stratford-Upon-Avon. Just a few miles down the motorway and you're transported to an unparalleled world of history, theatre, chic restaurants and cosy pubs dating back to the 1400s.

Stratford is a tonic to the modern world, the perfect destination for everyone from couples on a romantic break to hardcore history buffs, people looking to wile away a lazy Sunday to tourists desperate to be snapped next to Shakespeare's birthplace and the RSC theatre.

During the summer, the town is a hive of international visitors, buzzing around the theatre, Anne Hathaway's cottage, The Garrick Inn, Shakespeare's birthplace in Henley Street and his grave at Holy Trinity Church. While a sun-kissed picnic next to the Avon should not be underestimated, expect to queue for everything and pay top dollar for your choc ice.

My visit however took place on a rather blustery March weekend. The skies were grey, the wind fierce and there was not a picnic blanket nor 99 in sight. The streets were also relatively bare compared to the summer months. But, when you're snug in a creaking old pub, real fire on the go and propping up a heavy mahogany bar with a glass of red in hand, the weather doesn't seem to matter.

A four-star hotel boasting plump queen-size beds, top-class restaurant and spa doesn't hurt either.

As it was with Stratford Manor, handily located a short taxi ride away from the town centre. The hotel is luxurious yet laid back, with its food, drink and facilities checking all the boxes. But it was my room's super-comfy bed that threatened to derail my entire trip, given the fact I couldn't help but nap every time I sank into it.

Once dragged from beneath the duvet, it was off for a Saturday night at the iconic RSC theatre – all for the bargain price of £17 a ticket. That's right, £17. No wonder it was a sell-out. After all, the play's the thing.

The production was Hamlet and, after the customary pre-show tipple, we settled into our seats.

What followed was more than three hours of stirring and shattering drama. David Farr's production is running until September and Jonathan Slinger in the title role is worth a trip to Stratford alone. A truly talented actor.

After a glorious night's sleep in the hotel bed and a slap-up breakfast it was off for a stroll along the river before popping into Holy Trinity. The church is a breathtaking bit of history and it's something of an unreal feeling standing before the grave of the great man himself.

After that, it was time to soak up the sights and, let's be honest, shops, of the town centre. From countless Shakespeare gift shops and the famous all-year-round Christmas store to luxury boutiques such as Space NK, there is something for everyone.

The trip was rounded off with a spot of Sunday lunch in the famous Dirty Duck pub and restaurant. Friendly, cosy and frequented by the likes of Dame Judi Dench and Kylie Minogue, it's a must for any visitor.

Signed photos of its famous guests line the wall and the atmosphere is relaxed yet jolly. It is a most British of pubs and should be used as the blueprint for all others.

We went for a traditional roast beef dinner and seafood salad, all washed down with a few pints of Guinness and glasses of red while we settled down next to the real fire, Sunday papers in hand.

Not a bad weekend by anyone's standards. Not Bard at all. Sorry, couldn't help myself.

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