Express & Star

Wine, cheese and so much more to adore on the Ile D'Oleron

Just off the west coast of France, the Ile D'Oleron is country's second biggest island, sitting in the Bay of Biscay and blessed with a mild climate, writes Simon Penfold.

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But beware – for about a fortnight every summer it is absolutely blistering.

When we arrived, via a low sweeping bridge not far short of two miles long, the temperature was definitely scorchio – way up into the mid 90s.

The swimming pool at Eurocamp's Domaine D'Oleron parc is ideal to cool the blood

The island was in the middle of an arid heatwave with the occasional scrub fire breaking out.

Having just arrived from the wettest, most miserable English summer on record that was a bit much to cope with.

Fortunately the heat scaled back to the mid 80s overnight and stayed there for the rest of what turned into an absolutely blissful week.

For those who want it, the island offers horse riding, surfing and endless opportunities for cycling – it's very flat. But we were looking for relaxation, and we found it.

With oyster and mussel beds on one side and the little fishing village of La Cotiniere on the other, there's plenty of opportunity to eat out.

If you like seafood – and I do – the fish market and restaurants at La Cotiniere are an absolute must.

To walk off the food, from the lighthouse at the northern tip of the island to La Citadelle at the south, there are many places to visit, while the more adventurous can take up the chance of a boat trip to visit nearby island fortresses like Fort Boyard – made famous by the old Channel 4 game show.

And the beaches are idyllic – especially one we found near St Trojan, on the south west coast of the island. Having walked through some shady pinewoods, there was soft sand, blue water and a lot of French people wondering how this Brit had found their treasured hideaway.

Stay in a three-bedroom Horizon mobile home

Either by car or by boat there are plentiful opportunities to get off the island and go explore, but we found more than enough to do on Ile d'Oleron without a need to venture further. We were staying with Eurocamp at the Domaine d'Oleron site near the island's airport – an ideally central location just a little north of the main town, St Pierre d'Oleron.

This provided plentiful opportunities for a bit of retail therapy as well as the big hypermarkets for stocking up on the essentials – wine, cheese, bottled water, wine, washing up liquid (to wash the wine glasses) – that you can't find at the truly wonderful local markets and fish stalls.

And then there's the stalls and vineyards selling pineau, a local speciality like a strong sherry, served chilled to counteract its sweetness. It's a taste we rapidly acquired and the bottles that came home lasted less than a week.

Our accommodation was a three-bedroom Horizon mobile home.

With a well-equipped kitchen and lots of room to spread ourselves around, it proved a very comfortable base for the week. The site itself is quiet, with a pizzeria, large pool and helpful, friendly staff.

We crossed the Channel by Brittany Ferries from Portsmouth to St Malo. We booked a cabin so, after the drive down from the West Midlands and before the eight-hour slog to the island, the driver had plenty of time for some kip.

The site itself is quiet with a pizzeria, play area and helpful, friendly staff

There's something about starting your holiday on a ferry, it provides a real sense of leaving the world of work behind for a while and preparing for some serious relaxation.

It did mean a horribly early start in the wee small hours to get back in time for our mid-morning return ferry, but we got home in time for a decent sleep before a return to real life and work the next day.

I've been to France many times of the years, but I can't remember a holiday I have enjoyed more. Ile d'Oleron ticks all my boxes.

Fact file:

  • Brittany Ferries operates the longer routes from Portsmouth, Poole and Plymouth to Western France saving miles of unnecessary and costly driving. Travel overnight by luxury cruise-ferry in the comfort of your own cabin with en-suite facilities or be whisked across the channel in as little as three hours. We travelled from Portsmouth to St Malo and back where fares start at £124 each way for a car plus two passengers. See www.brittanyferries.com or call 0871 244 1400 to book.

  • Eurocamp is the UK’s leading European self-catering holiday operator, offering the perfect holiday option for families and couples.

  • Eurocamp offers the widest selection of outdoor family holidays on parcs throughout Europe; with a range of activities and age-specific kids’ clubs. Plus, there’s a fantastic choice of accommodation, including stylish mobile homes, lodges, modern chalets, bungalows, and fully equipped ‘Classic’ and ‘Safari’ tents.

  • A seven night break from 18 May 2013 staying at Eurocamp’s Domaine D’Oléron parc in a 2 Bedroom Horizon mobile home (sleeps 7, maximum 4 adults) with decking costs from just £301 for the whole family, accommodation only.

  • For further information on Eurocamp, please call 0844 406 0552 or visit www.eurocamp.co.uk

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