For most of us, Caen and the Normandy coast is that bit of France we zip through on our way to or from somewhere else writes Simon Penfold.

The ferries take you there and then it is off and away for the rest of your holiday. And it is our loss, as I soon discovered.

Fabulous food, history, culture, restful countryside, the surprisingly sunny beaches – this is just the other side of the Channel, remember – and ZZ Top.

Ooh la la, it’s ZZ Top – festival time

ZZ Top? The bearded rockers were the headline act at one of Normandy’s top summertime attractions – Festival Beauregard. Run in the grounds of a classic French chateau, this is a three-day rock festival that isn’t quite in the same league as Glastonbury or the V-Festival but the organisers clearly have ambitions.

Along with French acts like Gaetan Roussel, Zazie and Agnes Obel, last summer’s festival also featured The Kooks, Birdy Nam Nam, metal legends Motorhead and Eels as well as the Texan trio.

The event provided the highly entertaining musical background from a long weekend in Normandy that proved something of a revelation.

Whether it is for a few days’ break or even a week, Normandy can provide more than enough to keep a couple, or even a family, amused, entertained and well fed.

Our base for the weekend was La Mare o Poissons, a Hotel Best Western in Ouistreham, just outside of Caen. Comfortable, with an excellent restaurant on the premises, it proved ideal for exploring the local area.

And that ranged from the historic streets of Caen itself, including the cathedral that houses the remains of William the Conqueror and an immense open-air Sunday market, to hidden gems like Cabourg.

Cabourg is a popular resort town on the coast, built just over a century ago for the wealthy middle classes who enjoyed its Belle Epoque Grand Hôtel Cabourg – a favourite of author Marcel Proust – casino and summer homes.

It also offers two-and-a-half miles of fine, sandy, beach and restaurants like Le Baligan. Fish of the day sat in a basket, on a bed of ice, or glared at you from the lobster tank. It was everything a French lunch should be: leisurely, luxurious and lots of it.

For those who need to work off their lunch, or are just naturally more active, there is a host of activities to try in Normandy, from walking, cycling and horseriding to messing about in boats.

A more recent arrival is golf. Golf Compact de Louvigny offers a practice destination with synthetic greens that are ideal for the beginner or the more experienced player looking to hone his or her swing.

Of course, no visit to Normandy should miss the chance of visiting at least one of the many historic sites connected to D-Day, from the beach museums to preserved gun emplacements like Batterie D’Azeville and the Pegaus Bridge.

Before catching our Brittany Ferry home – still my favourite way of getting too and fro across the Channel – there was a final restaurant meal.

Le Boeuf Ferré proved to be an absolute classic, from its charming old setting in the historic back streets of Caen to its stunningly good food. The various menus start from 22 euros a head and are worth every cent. It was one of the best meals I have ever eaten, finished off with a glass of Calvados – the classic apple brandy without which no trip to Normandy is complete.

A century ago the stylish French would flock to Caen and the Normandy coast for the summer. Do yourself a favour and do the same – you won’t regret it.

Fact file:

• For information on the area visit www.normandy-tourism.org, www.caen.fr or www.boeufferre.com
• If you speak French, take a look at www.festivalbeauregard.com which is also good.
• For further details on crossings visit www.brittany-ferries.co.uk