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Slope away for fantastic adventures in Canada
Sunday 29th January 2012, 8:43AM GMT.
It’s all downhill from here, as Alex James ventures for a memorable skiing holiday in the Canadian Rockies.
And we we’re off. Skis pointing down, piste dropping off, and the first gate fast approaching.
The Lake Louise World Cup course in the Canadian Rockies is regarded as one of the quickest on the circuit with competitors regularly reaching speeds of 130kmph.
I wasn’t quite going that fast as I took the first turn with all the finesse of a drunk driver skidding on the ice on his way home.
Thankfully, we had joined the course slightly further down than the actual starting gate high above us in the winter sky, otherwise there would have been no stopping me, literally.
As it was I was able to control the turn and ease out of it before pausing, perched halfway down the mountain, to compose myself.
Below, I could see the next gate away to my left, and gazed down the 6km course to the finish line, flanked by the advertising and the departing crowd that minutes earlier had watched the last of the official runners fly down in a cacophony of cow bells and encouragement.
The winning time was an impressive one minute 47 seconds from Switzerland’s Didier Cuche, who then performed a hugely impressive uncoupling of his ski by flicking it skywards in a winter version of Frankie Dettori’s flying dismount from a winning horse.
Moments later when I crossed the line (alright it probably took me 15 minutes to get down) I didn’t attempt anything nearly as impressive, settling instead for a huge exhale of breath and a quick picture to prove I had made it.
We were kindly escorted down the slopes by Dave Hawkins, vice chairman of the race organising committee for WinterStart World Cup, and his informative chats about the various sections of each turn had a lot to do with my slow time.
I wasn’t the only Brit on the slopes that day – Scotland’s Dougie Crawford finished 65th in the downhill, an improvement of one place from his starting position.
The night before we had spent a couple of hours in his company as he spoke of the problems he faces just to reach the start gate.
“It’s difficult,” he said. That was the understatement of the trip, Dougie receives no funding and all his costs are paid for by private sponsors. He has managed to secure some skis from Head, but should he encounter a problem with his equipment, he must first wait and see if the Austrians or Swiss – populated by podium finishers – need any of the kit first. Only when they have had their say, can Dougie dive in. It’s the equivalent of picking out the gym shorts when you’d forgotten your PE kit at school.
Despite the problems that see Dougie spend his spare time writing letters begging sponsors for a helping hand as he seeks to raise the £20,000 needed for a season competing, he was full of optimism ahead of the race and the remainder of the campaign where he hopes to break into the top 30 in the world.
Now I can’t really grow a beard so I never really try. And if my future is in Sunshine Village Ski Resort then that’s a good thing.
According to our ski instructor, resident Brit Chris Schermuly, you either have to be with beard or without, no middle ground.
“It’s the rules here”, he says, stroking his fully fledged explorer beard while taking in the stunning view off the gondola which is taking us to the main ski area in Sunshine.
The scenery is something quite spectacular and needs to be seen to be believed. The resort, along with the other ski areas in the TriSki area – Lake Louise and Norquay – Sunshine is part of Banff National Park.
As such building your obligatory chalets and hotels across the mountainside, as is so often the case in European resorts, is notoriously difficult. The result is that you ski surrounded by snow capped mountains and wildlife. It is commonplace to see the odd squirrel running around the pistes while bears are also residents.
Indeed a couple of the local ski friends – a fantastic initiative set up at Lake Louise that allow you to ski for free with veteran volunteers who have grown up on the pistes – tells us that should you ever see steam rising through the snow below your feet, it will be a bear sleeping below.
Thankfully, we didn’t encounter any bears as we made the most of what both resorts had to offer.
For the ski instructors, it’s like working inside a screensaver.
The landscape, untouched by building work, is almost indescribable it’s that good. And with such a wide range of slopes, more often than not you feel like you’re the only man on the mountain
Even in early season, with a fair few runs still waiting for a little extra snowfall, there is more than enough to leave intermediate skiers with more than enough choice while the beginner will enjoy the wide open pistes to practice those all important turns.
Let’s not forget that skiing is, after all, a sport. And nowhere is that more clear than the Canadian Rockies. Lunch is an option rather than a necessity and although the food is plentiful and tasty, it is not served in the same ambience or accompanied by a rustic red wine like its European counterparts. The emphasis here is on the skiing, not the sitting.
There’s plenty of time for relaxation and recuperation afterwards. A stop in the Fox Hotel and Suites four star hotel provided us with use of the hot tub, which includes a hole in the roof allowing you to take in the night sky while your aching limbs are eased by the warm water and the intricate rockwork – carved by a local artist as an exact replica of the foundations of the area in yesteryear.
The neighbouring Fairmont Banff Springs also offers a superb ski experience including an outdoor whirlpool and three waterfall treatment pools that ensure you are more than ready for the next challenging slope.
Of course, in between the hot tub and the next morning comes the night out.
Banff itself is a lively enough base for those seeking a few beers after a tough day on the slopes. The Canadian folk are welcoming and in tune with the British sense of humour while the more than generous sprinkling of Australian residents gives the town a really relaxed feel.
A pint won’t break the bank at an average of six Canadian Dollars (approximately £3.75) while the food is also reasonably priced with steak and burgers among the most popular dishes. There’s even a couple of sumptuous Canadian wines to tickle the palate.
It is all too easy just to take a break and enjoy the scenery around you from the comfort of a bar, but there are other alternatives for the more outgoing.
Johnston Canyon, half an hour outside Banff, is well worth a visit. It offers up some stunning views at every turn which are simply point and shoot moments for anyone holding a camera – fully charged batteries an absolute must.
The walk to upper falls is a fairly gentle three kilometre climb, although if your legs are still heavy from a few days on the slopes, a 1.5km walk to lower falls is equally rewarding. Taking in the views in the company of Gordon Sterrmann the owner of White Mountains Adventures allowed us to tackle the walk at a leisurely pace while tracking at least half a dozen animals along the path.
Snow-shoeing is another great way to see the landscape. And there is no better place for your first lesson on large wooden tennis rackets than Lake Louise. It was here we were introduced to Ace Ventura, who was to be our guide for the afternoon.
Ok, so it wasn’t Ace but it was the Canadian version named Mike Vincent.
What he didn’t know about the area’s wildlife wasn’t worth knowing and the 90 minutes we spent in his company were simply fascinating.
Back on the pistes, Chris had decided to teach a couple of us how to jump.
It seemed a challenge that needed to be accepted so as the majority of the group waited to capture my moment of failure on camera, I watched as another member of the group went first, then waited as both he and his two skis were cleared off the course.
Not a good sign.
Fortunately after getting almost three inches off the ground I was able to land on my feet and even managed to stop.
Moments later, Chris showed me up by doing an exaggerated star jump and then spraying snow into our faces as he cruised to a halt.
Still, practice makes perfect, and I’m already inking in a return trip.
Fact file:
- London or Manchester to Calgary. Passengers with Canadia Affair receive 25kgs of baggage plus 20kg of ski baggage.
- A six-day, tri-area ski pass costs £222 (including coach transfers. Ski equipment hire costs from £9 per day, and three days of Club Ski group lessons cost £208 per person.
- For more information visit www.canadianaffair.com or call 0207 616 9999.
- For further details on the fabulous ski resorts visit www.skibig3.com
- For general information regarding tourism in the area visit www.banfflakelouise.com
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