Freewheeling on a bike down a path in the Andes, the lush green hills rise up before me.

I’m not entirely sure where I’ll end up – and the thin air up here is making it hard to breathe.

A small helmet is jammed on my head, and the rubberised cycling gloves are saving me from rather unpleasant handlebar burns.

We’re in Colca Canyon, a remote corner of southern Peru some 3,600m above sea level – and about 36 hours from Heathrow, including an overnight stop in the capital Lima before an internal flight to Arequipa.

Even though I haven’t been on a bike outside a gym for about three years, I seem to be getting the hang of it, especially the bit where you don’t have to pedal downhill.

Altitude

Our bodies fight to adjust to the high altitude, and our twenty-something guide, a robust-looking lad, brings up the rear to catch anybody unlucky enough to fall off.

The first 20 minutes of this ride are pretty easy, allowing plenty of time to take in the surrounding vista. We can see llamas ahead in woolly coats, while snow-capped peaks glint in the distance.

As the road begins to snake uphill, it’s soon taking all our time to keep the bike wheels turning. The altitude does funny things to you, making you feel exhausted and smiley-in-a-sort-of-delirious-way all at the same time.

All my energy goes into pedalling, and yet the bike doesn’t shift very fast. It’s a wonderful workout, although a few of us hop off for part of the way to chat and soak up the scenery.

Half an hour later, we’re back at our base, the stunning Las Casitas del Colca hotel. It’s about a three-hour drive from the city of Arequipa, with the casitas (literally meaning small houses) sitting towards the edge of the canyon.

Unlike its American counterparts such as the Grand Canyon and Bryce, Colca Canyon is not defined by stark, rocky structures.

Instead, it is a deep trough filled with grassy verges, seemingly endless hills and fields brimming with wild flowers. At 3,629m, this is the second-deepest canyon in Peru and indeed the world.

A distinctly unusual hotel, it has all the luxuries you’d expect from the Orient-Express chain and yet it’s small enough to ensure superb personal service.

Guests can fish for their dinner in the trout lake, or pick vegetables from a delicious organic patch. Toiletries, all hand-made in Peru, come in terracotta pots – so no overflow of plastic bottles.

It’s no wonder that guests feel remote from the world in a sanctuary of their own.

I spent ages showering outdoor by candlelight and sitting in my private hut tub, sipping cocktails and gazing up at the stars.

Romantic

The night is so clear that it’s possible to see the Milky Way, with a small observatory planned in the main lodge for 2010.

Las Casitas is nothing if not romantic, and in the winter months it’s a cosy retreat. There are log fires in each house and huge candelabras with twinkling tealights, all helping to create a soothing atmosphere.

Next morning, we awake early to go hiking in the canyon, avoiding the worst of the midday sun.

After following the trail for 20 minutes or so, I emerge at the foot of Yanque village. This place is like something out of a children’s story-book, with an imposing white church, cobbled paths and youngsters playing in the central square.

There is a little museum dedicated to the history of the area, but I skip it in favour of nodding and smiling at the children.

Desperate to inspect my camera, they pose willingly as I snap away. Once I’ve taken a few shots, I show them how to view images of themselves on its screen.

Trekking deeper into the canyon, lots of men and women are wearing traditional Peruvian dress – their embroidered shirts and bright jackets are complemented by straw hats tied under the chin.

It’s difficult to believe that barely a day ago we were taking in Lima’s spectacular sights, including the colonial buildings downtown, which is a designated Unesco World Heritage Site.

As I observe the sight now before me – trickling stream, snowy mountains and bright blue sky – I consider Colca Canyon to be no less beautiful.