When it comes to the supermarket shop, we’ve come full circle in recent years. Delicacies from exotic lands are no longer left out of the trolley because they cause faint feelings of suspicion – but rather because shoppers have developed a conscience.

The rise of farmers’ markets and the urgings of larger-than-life cooking stars such as Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall have convinced food lovers that it’s better to buy local, says Nigel White, secretary of the British Cheese Board.

And this new variation of “food xenophobia” is good news for British cheese makers, he explains, as each year the British consumer becomes a little more likely to reach for Cheddar than Gouda.

It wasn’t until about 1990 that shoppers even had the choice. “Until then most of the cheese market was supermarket own label,” he says. “Then farmers began making cheese in order to compensate for low milk prices, and independent cheese making has flourished.

“We’ve now got half a dozen brands that aren’t supermarket owned, such as Cathedral City, Tickler, Seriously Strong and Lake District, that consumers are really aware of.”

Christmas is a time when we traditionally eat a lot of Stilton, but with more than 700 named cheeses currently being produced in the UK, it’s also the perfect time to try something different as well.

“Whichever cheese you try this Christmas, if you want to buy British, make sure you check the label to ensure that it is,” advises White. And if you’re not sure what to buy, head to the British Cheese Board’s new Cheese Flavour Map (www.britishcheese.com).

“We’ve got an equivalent to virtually any cheese made in the world,” says White, with pride. “Our Bries and Camemberts are winning prizes, and our goats’ cheese I think is better because the quality of our milk is so much better.”

The flavour map will guide cheese newcomers towards products that match their tastebuds.

“We’ve identified some significant flavour characteristics in the cheeses, such as tangy or nutty, which can then guide you towards an ideal cheese match,” he explains.

Best of British cheeseboard

For the ultimate Christmas cheeseboard, select between three and five cheeses of different types and textures, says White. “Include hard, soft and blue cheeses. You could also include a blended cheese and a local cheese, too.”

Here are his suggestions for a five-cheese British board…

1. West Country Farmhouse Cheddar

Cheddar cheese is made all over the world, but when it comes to great Farmhouse Cheddar there is no substitute for the real thing. This cheese is made on farms in the West Country according to the region’s traditional methods with milk from local cows.

2. Blue Stilton

Rightfully known as the ‘King of English cheeses’, Stilton is honoured with a certification trademark and Protected Designation of Origin status, meaning it can only be made in the counties of Nottinghamshire, Derbyshire and Leicestershire to a specified recipe.

3. Wensleydale and Cranberry

Eating cheese with herbs and fruits dates back to Roman times – and Wensleydale, with its milky, creamy freshness, makes an ideal partner for sweet and savoury ingredients alike. Wensleydale is often blended with cranberries and this combination is great for Christmas.

4. British Brie

Many people are surprised to learn that Brie – and Camembert – can be produced in the UK. In fact, British Brie is made on a larger scale by two companies, CCL based in Cornwall and Lubborn Cheese based in Somerset. British Brie tends to be creamier and slightly milder than that made by our French counterparts, and suits the British palate. As it ripens, it becomes softer, richer and fuller in flavour. Both British Brie and Camembert can be found in most supermarkets.

5. Cornish Yarg

Cornish Yarg is unique cheese which looks good and tastes great. It is wrapped in nettle leaves that attract wonderful natural moulds (which means the rinds vary in colour as the cheese matures) to help it ripen. When the recipe was discovered, the makers decided it needed a Cornish-sounding name and called it Yarg – a reversal of the original recipe owner’s name.

Cheesy tips

Here are the British Cheese Board’s top tips for buying, storing and serving cheese at Christmas.

• Cheese is best enjoyed fresh, although it can be stored in a cool environment for anything from a couple of days to several months, depending on the type of cheese.
• Buy softer cheeses such as Brie and Camembert in advance so that they have a chance to ripen.
• When storing cheese, either wrap it tightly in foil or clingfilm or keep in an airtight container in the bottom part of the fridge.
• To bring out its full flavour, cheese should always be served at room temperature. Therefore, take it out of the fridge up to two hours before serving.
• Avoid using the same knife to cut different cheeses as this can lead to the flavours contaminating one another.

Leftover cheesy treats

Got friends coming round? Whip up some ever-so-simple cheesy recipes…

West counrty cheese straws

(24 cheese straws)

225g plain flour

Pinch of salt

25g walnuts (bashed in a bag with a rolling pin to grind)

25g sunflower seeds

75g butter, chilled

75g Extra Mature West Country Farmhouse Cheddar, grated

2 medium egg yolks

2tbsp cold water

Sieve the flour and salt into a medium size bowl and stir in sunflower seeds and roughly ground walnuts. Coarsely shave the butter into the flour along with the cheese. Add egg yolks and water and combine together using a fork and then by hand.

Transfer mix onto a work surface lightly dusted with flour and knead until smooth.

Roll out in an approximate rectangle to the thickness of a £1 coin.

Cut into even pencil length strips and carefully transfer to a baking sheet lined with baking parchment using a palette knife or spatula.

Bake at 200C/Gas mark 6 until golden brown in colour and crisp. Cool on baking sheet for 2-3 minutes to harden before transferring to a cooling tray.

Store in an airtight container for up to 5 days.

Westcountry rarebit crostini with caramelised shallots

(Makes 20 Crostini)

For the crostini:

1 long stick French bread

1tbsp extra virgin olive oil

2 cloves garlic, crushed

1tbsp olive oil

1tbsp balsamic vinegar

10 shallots, peeled

For the rarebit:

5tbsp milk

300g Extra Mature West Country Farmhouse Cheddar, grated

25g plain flour

2 medium egg yolks

½tsp mustard powder

Tabasco Sauce

Sprig of fresh redcurrants to garnish

Cut French bread diagonally into thin 1cm thick rounds. Brush with the olive oil. Place on a baking sheet and oven bake for 10-12 minutes at 200C/Gas Mark 6 until crisp and golden. Rub crushed garlic over bread surface.

Oven roast the shallots with the olive oil and balsamic at 200C/Gas Mark 6 for about 30 minutes until soft, covering with wetted baking parchment if they start to excessively brown. Once cooked, halve the shallots.

Prepare the rarebit. Warm the milk in a medium size pan but do not allow to boil. Stir in the cheese until melted. Add the flour, mustard powder and seasonings and stir over a gentle heat until a thick paste is made. Cool for a couple of minutes before beating in the egg yolks.

Spoon rarebit mix onto the prepared crostini and top with the shallots. Cook for 10-15 minutes at 200C/Gas mark 6 until the cheese begins to bubble and brown at the edges.

Top with fresh redcurrants for a decorative finish.

• For more info visit www.britishcheese.com