The Hedgehog Lichfield

Mozart's mate Muzio once lived at splendid pub,

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In this job, it pays to keep a low profile. To slip in unnoticed, to avoid any actions which might draw unwanted attention to your presence.

So it was unfortunate that my arrival at The Hedgehog looked more like a scene out of the Dukes of Hazzard than the stealthy arrival of a polished undercover agent.

Okay, maybe the Dukes of Hazzard is overdoing it a bit. But I did skid – for at least six inches – as I inelegantly pulled up outside this stylish building on the fringes of the historic cathedral city.

This car park is gravelly. Very gravelly. Like one of those deep, pebbly beaches that always seem to be frequented by yachty types and surfing dudes. I was almost tempted to set up my deckchair and settle down with an ice cream and a handkerchief on my head. Well almost.

"Make sure no-one spikes your drinks," one wag remarked after hearing the name of my destination. Sharp, or what?

This place wasn't always The Hedgehog. The building, which dates back to 1797, used to be Lyncroft House, home to Muzio Clementi, no less.

Muzio who? Well apparently he was a celebrated composer, piano virtuoso and friend of Mozart. I have it on good authority, that in his day he was considered second only to Joseph Haydn. Which, I guess, by today's standards, puts him right up there with Liberace and Bobby Crush. See, this column's educational, too.

The pub itself has commanding views across the countryside, and if you really want to get the feeling of what it is like to live on your own country estate, there are rooms for an overnight stay.

There is a large patio area to the front, with a set of beer barrels making for some interesting garden planters, just the place to sit on a sunny summer's day. The imposing portico makes for a pretty impressive entrance, and it all looks pretty friendly for wheelchair users too.

I think I chose the wrong week to come, though. A sign outside was promoting a cask ale festival next weekend – regular readers will know how much I enjoy a good beer festival.

The pub is part of the Vintage Inns chain, but you wouldn't think so from the decor. The company has wisely gone easy on the rustic beams and corporate chalk boards, allowing the pub's Georgian character to shine through. There is one particularly attractive room with a gorgeous oriental rug, light walls and a white fireplace, it's just a shame that they spoiled it with all the cable work for the spotlights just below the ceiling.

While I'm not one for piped music in pubs, I do think they missed a trick by not playing some of Muzio Clementi's works, if only in one of the rooms. I mean how many pubs can say they were once home to a famous composer?

The clientele is fairly broad based, probably mainly in the 30-to-60 age bracket, a mixture of couples and groups of friends. It was interesting to see how the younger groups tended to gravitate towards the bar, whereas the older customers seemed to be in the more formal rooms at the far end.

Unusually for a Vintage Inn, there seems to be a full waiter service. A few minutes after we took our seats, we were approached by a man called Martin who informed us he would be at our service when we decided what we would be having.

Having tried pork and beef on previous visits to Vintage Inns, I decided it was about time I sampled the lamb. The lamb cutlets on the specials board presented one option, but this time I decided to try the lamb shank, in part because I was attracted by the prospect of dauphinoise potatoes.

My dining companion went for the pork belly, and we also decided we would have some bread rolls with olive oil and balsamic vinegar as a light starter. To accompany the food I went for a pint of Black Beauty, a dark porter from Buckinghamshire's Vale Brewery. It is quite a thick, heavy beer with a rich, caramel flavour with I quite enjoyed. If you prefer something a little lighter, Everard's Tiger is recommended.

The bread came quite quickly, and there was a good selection of different types, with a few pieces of pitta bread bringing a touch of the exotic to the proceedings. I was slightly surprised to find chillies in the olive oil, though, and would have liked a little more balsamic vinegar. This matter was quickly rectified by Martin who promptly bought another bowl.

The main courses came in good time, and the lamb shank was excellent. Soft and tender without too much bone, it was served with red peppers roasted in rosemary and broccoli, and I really enjoyed the dauphinoise potatoes which had bags of creamy flavour.

My companion enjoyed her pork belly, which came with chopped chorizo, honey roasted apple and rosemary to add a dash of spice, and was also served with the excellent dauphinoise potatoes. Why don't more restaurants offer these, which are surely more interesting than the bog-standard mash?

The portions were generous, but there was still plenty of room left for a dessert. After briefly flirting with the Sicilian lemon sponge, I went for the treacle tart, a decision I feel was vindicated when it arrived.

These things are all a matter of personal preference, but for a sweet-toothed so-and-so like myself, it was the perfect way to end the evening, with lots of gooey syrup, and not too much ginger. My companion went straight for the Eton Mess, which she thought was excellent.

The total bill came to £44 exactly, which puts it towards the upper end of the mid-market, but I think this was reflected in the attractive surroundings, and friendly but discreet service.

All in all, it hits just the right note.

ADDRESS

The Hedgehog, Stafford Road, Lichfield WS13 8JB

Tel: 01543 415 789

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

Fried dusted calamari served with a smoked paprika and lime mayonnaise £5.45; Beer battered mushrooms served with garlic dip £3.95; Chicken liver, pork and mushroom pâté with toast and Cumberland chutney £4.75

MAINS

Hunter's chicken with seasoned chips and garden peas £8.95; Beer battered fish and chips, mushy peas and fresh tartare sauce £7.95; 9oz sirloin steak with beer-battered onion rings, plum tomato, iceberg wedge with caesar dressing and chips £13.75; Beef, mushroom and ale pie served with mash and seasonal greens £8.95; Roasted Mediterranean vegetable risotto served with baby spinach and a crumbed confit tomato £8.25

DESSERTS

Banoffee cheesecake with fresh banana, dolce de leche and whipped cream £4.95; Chocolate brownie with chocolate fudge sauce and vanilla ice cream £4.25