Adorned with movie legends, this village pub is a star performer with its locally-sourced produce, writes our undercover meal reviewer The Insider.

I was just observing the tongue-in-cheek memorabilia at the back of The New Inns, when one of the retro metal signs in the rear corridor caught my eye.

“No spitting at the walls or on the floor,” it read.

I dunno, some people spoil all the fun. You do wonder if such a ban would even be allowed in these politically-correct times. Surely it infringes the human rights of the punk community?

It was a tip-off from reader Frankie that alerted me to the charms of The New Inns.

“The first time I encountered it was one dark night when it appeared, lit up like a beacon in the middle of nowhere,” he says.

“I’m vegetarian and there are regularly a couple of choices which I’ve always thoroughly enjoyed. For meat eaters there’s plenty to choose from plus more on the specials board. It’s all freshly prepared by the landlady and the waiting staff are very friendly and helpful.

“Their Thursday nights feature a special offer of two steaks and a bottle of wine for £20, which is always very popular, and I had my meal there on Christmas Day which was excellent, with a lovely relaxed atmosphere.”

Not only that, but I also have it on good authority that landlady Glynis has danced for Serbia and used to be the head chef at the BBC’s old Pebble Mill studios in Birmingham. And that a former member of Slade can sometimes be seen tucking into the food or enjoying a pint. What more can you want?

Well if there was a former member of Slade eating there during my visit, I didn’t spot him. Then again, I was probably focusing more on the legions of Hollywood legends surrounding me. From a vantage point at the back of the pub, Marilyn Monroe gazed down at the specials board. Steve McQueen was in the corridor next to the toilets. Humphrey Bogart struck a relaxed pose just across the room from the bar. As you have probably guessed, there are a lot of old photographs on display at this place.

I did wonder why it was called The New Inns though. The “New” bit I can just about comprehend. While it is not a new building, it obviously would have been at one time. It’s the “Inns” bit I don’t understand. Why the “s”? Are there two of them?

Inside The New Inns, Brewood

The New Inns is very much a traditional community pub, a double-fronted building set behind a considerable garden area to the front. Parking is plentiful, and wheelchair access should not be a problem.

Our arrival was greeted by a rather large dog barking from an upstairs window – I bet they never get burglars here.

The pub is divided into two parts, the front being a traditional bar with a dartboard in the corner, and the rear being mainly a dining area. The latter has a high, beamed roof, and is quite stylishly furnished with attractive table lamps and period advertisements complementing the black-and-white movie imagery.

There was a pretty broad cross-section of people on the night of our visit, slightly weighted towards the middle-aged rather than the young or the old. By far the majority looked to be dining when we arrived, although as the evening progressed the restaurant got quieter and the bar became busier.

A couple on the table next to me were debating the relative merits of beer and wine. I decided I would be going with the former; I always feel the a traditional country pub is far more conducive to drinking from the grain rather than the grape. Two beers from the Marston’s stable were on offer – Banks’s bitter (but not mild) and English Pale Ale. I decided to give the EPA a try, and found it to be a pleasantly refreshing beer with a light citrus flavour.

All the meat is supplied by Langs of Codsall, a butcher well-known in the area for its locally-sourced and fully traceable produce. I would imagine that faggots and peas are a popular choice, and chicken fans have a choice of four different varieties.

But it was the homemade beef-and-ale pie which I had really set my heart on.

Unfortunately, at least for myself, I was not alone. The last pie had already been nabbed by the person before me, so instead I went for steak – regular readers will know that this is hardly a hardship for me – selecting a 10oz rib-eye, while my companion went for the salmon in orange sauce.

There was a wait of around half an hour for the food to arrive – a little on the long side, but not too bad, and the food was worth waiting for.

People who think I bang on too much about locally-sourced ingredients really should try places such as this; you really can taste the difference. The steak was soft and moist, and had good flavour without suffering from the excessive fattiness that some ribeyes suffer from. The homemade pepper sauce was quite thick and creamy, and was towards the mild end of the spectrum, while the chips were hand cut and crispy, and the vegetables fresh, bright and tasty.

For afters, the ginger and lime cheesecake sounded intriguing, but I wondered if it would be a touch hot for my delicate taste buds; in the end I decided to play safe and went for the sticky toffee pudding, a pleasant dish, and generously proportioned, but it wasn’t up to the same high standard as the main course. My companion went for a lemon meringue, again a good-sized portion, and both were reasonably priced at £3.50.

The staff were all friendly and welcoming, the young, dark-haired girl being particularly hardworking and helpful, but the service was occasionally a little slow, and I did end up going to the bar asking if I could settle the bill.

And the damage? For two courses each, a couple of pints and a cup of coffee, the total bill was £37.10, which puts it firmly in the middle of the market. But it is worth remembering that this was for locally-sourced, home-cooked food, which I think represents pretty good value.

And halfway between Wolverhampton and Stafford, it should not be Far, Far Away for too many people.

ADDRESS
The New Inns, Kiddemore Green, Brewood, ST19 9BH
Tel: 01902 850614

MENU SAMPLE
STARTER
Stuffed mushroom (£3.95); Whitebait served with tartar sauce (£3.50), Pate with fruit chutney toast and salad garnish (£3.95)

MAIN COURSES
Pasta and Stilton bake (£7.50); Stuffed chicken breast (£8.50); Chicken sizzler (£8.50); Surf and turf (£10.95); Lasagne (£7.50)

DESSERTS
Apple pie (£3.50); Trio of ice creams (£3.50); Cheese and biscuits (£4.50)