London strikes catwalk gold

Thursday 23rd February 2012, 11:20AM GMT.

models displaying creations by designer Mary Katrantzou during a fashion show at London Fashion Week
models displaying creations by designer Mary Katrantzou during a fashion show at London Fashion Week

Lycra and track shoes may be on the style agenda for this Olympic summer, but the catwalks of London Fashion Week have already fast-forwarded to autumn and winter.

In a star-studded, high-calibre display, Stella McCartney, Alexander McQueen’s McQ label and Moschino’s Cheap & Chic line all made a big entrance, while British heavyweights Burberry, Temperley and Matthew Williamson continued to dazzle the crowds.

American Vogue editor Anna Wintour has even gone on record saying she can’t remember a more “culturally exciting time” in London.

The show stoppers

Catwalks aren’t just about the clothes. From runway design through to spectacular stunts and the FROW (fashion speak for front row), there’s a lot going on. Here are my best in show awards:

  • Best for celeb spotting: Stella McCartney

But the starry night was just a backdrop for her stellar designs, from voluminous marble print dresses to monochromatic panelled gowns. Her red carpet regulars await.

  • Best for causing a storm: Burberry Prorsum

As models closed the show toting bright umbrellas, the Burberry heavens opened and faux rain beat down onto the glass tent while a glitter shower poured down indoors.

But, ironically, it’s time to trade in the traditional Burberry raincoat for countryside-inspired outerwear. The Town and Field collection showcased tweed, herringbone and waxed jackets topped off with grandad-style flat caps.

  • Best for finale: McQ Alexander McQueen

The final model grabbed a rope hiding under the leaves and slowly pulled it down the catwalk towards a spectacular illuminated forest. Cue flashing lights, pumping dance music and an inquisitive audience.

The mysterious finale was befitting for the Gothic-inspired sculpted gowns and skirts, which featured embellished petals and intricate embroidery. Heavenly.

  • Best for transformation: Topshop Unique

Under the vision of new creative director Kate Phelan, the collection was more high-fashion than high street – modern, wearable utility pieces that could outlive any faddy trend.

For daytime, shirt dresses, silk shirts and trousers and military-inspired coats featured. And for partying, velvet jumpsuits and sophisticated sequins shone.

  • Best for dramatic venue: Nicole Farhi

The dramatic high ceilings, stained glass windows and marble mosaic floors formed the perfect backdrop for her collection, which referenced turn-of-the-century Vienna and the French Art Nouveau as inspirations.

There were subtle celebratory sparkles in the form of metallic matte sequin panels set against tailored dresses and skirts in softer contrasting fabrics.

The catwalk podium

Which designers hit fashion gold in the race to set the trends for autumn/winter? My winners are:

  • Best for opulence: Temperley London

Inspired by Renaissance religious art, the collection was adorned with rich golden brocades, ornate decorative patterns and embroidery fit for a queen (or princess).

The plush velvets and heavy mixed embellishments fused together for a luxe ‘polished folk’ look – and let’s not forget the statement headwear.

Temperley got a-head of the AW12 season’s obsession with hats with fantasy fur cossacks inspired by Doctor Zhivago.

  • Best for brights: Moschino Cheap & Chic

The Make Up Your Life collection was a nudge to “mash up your clothes to find your style”, with a strong injection of fun.

Think rainbow furs, neon bright pieces, patchwork contrast lace and cutesy make-up prints jumbled together with a nod to Sixties chic.

“Austin Powers fembots” was the result, according to front rower Alexa Chung.

  • Best for glamour: Matthew Williamson

This collection was Fabergé egg-inspired: cue bright contrasting colours like turquoise blue and raspberry topped off with lashings of gold brocade.

For his red carpet-worthy offering, Williamson’s swishing gowns were gilded with eye-catching, jewel-embellished necklines and baroque prints were clashed with bold zig-zags of bright colour.

Guests left the Royal Opera House catwalk venue practically singing with delight.

  • Best for coats: Pringle of Scotland

The coats that had fashion editors writing next season’s shopping lists in their front row seats all had an undercurrent of defiance. Standout school uniform-style overcoats featured contrasting collars and sleeves in bubble gum pinks and mints for a sweet twist.

With more colour blocking and clever pleat-back detailing to follow, these coats got A+ approval from the front row.

  • Best for prints: Mary Katrantzou

But the print maestro delivered with a grown-up collection so polished it almost had a couture edge. Sculpted gowns were detailed with embroidery and embellishments to emphasise the dramatic silhouettes.

Calling on office staples, from typewriter to clock, her mesmerising prints required a closer inspection that left the fashion pack wanting more.

Hot gossip

Here are the major talking points amongst attendees at London Fashion Week, as compiled by fashion forecaster EDITD from tweets, blogs and updates (editd.com/londonAW1213).

  • 6,515 discussed Russian themes at Temperley, Issa and Clements Ribeiro.
  • 4,316 were whispering about the uber-exclusive Stella McCartney party.
  • 1,322 mentioned celebrity Alexa Chung having been seen at Stella McCartney, House of Holland, Topshop Unique, Mary Katrantzou and Burberry.
  • 275 raved about the rain at Burberry Prorsum.
  • 188 mentioned stationery following the crayons, pencils and typewriters at Mary Katrantzou.
  • 113 people discussed rainbow furs, having seen them at Matthew Williamson, Moschino Cheap & Chic and House of Holland.
  • 128 were left in awe of the leaves on the McQ catwalk.
  • And 392 people confessed to being late for shows.

Get the look

Kylie Minogue wowed at the Brit Awards in blue. Borrow her cobalt look with Simply Be’s pleat crinkle strapless dress, £58, available in sizes 14-32 (www.simplybe.co.uk).

Buy it now

Embrace the seasonal obsession for prints with Marks & Spencer’s Prints of the Future collection. The five pieces are priced from £25, available now at www.marksandspencer.com

Fashion flash

  • Wardrobe waster
  • Recessionista alert


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