The Verve Grill, Walsall

There is plenty of parking here,

. Not that many empty spaces mind, but plenty of cars. In fact some would say it has the world's biggest car park – it is next to the M6.

The motorists of the West Midlands should all get together, launch a protest or something. I dunno, how about driving along the M6 in convoy, very, very slowly? Sorry, everybody's doing that already.

Fortunately, most of us living around the West Midlands will not need to negotiate the M6 to get to the Village Hotel, just off Junction 10. In fact the Black Country Route means getting there is a doddle. But as I said, the huge car park was heaving on the night of our visit.

After a few minutes' driving around I managed to squeeze into a tight space next to carelessly parked van. And I managed to get the car in the space too.

The Village is a large hotel, occupying a lofty position at the top of a rather impressive sweep of steps. The well-kept Cotswold-style stonework gives a classy effect, and while I might have had a few difficulties finding a space close to the door, disabled provision is excellent, with a large bay near the entrance and a gently-sloping ramp leading up to the entrance.

There is a neat terrace to the front of the hotel, which is a pleasant place to relax on these balmy evenings. The view is not what you would call picturesque, though, and there is, of course, noise from the traffic.

As with all the Village hotels, there are two dining choices: the Victory pub, with large screen televisions showing the football – although watching the World Cup in a pub called the Victory probably feels like rubbing salt into the wounds after Sunday's debacle.

We, however, opted for the more formal Verve Grill, the hotel's spacious and stylish restaurant.

Georgina was our host for the evening, a friendly and polite young brunette who directed us to a pleasant seat.

"Are you a guest?" asked Georgina as we arrived, and it did make me wonder what would have happened if I had replied "Yes, Room 49, and I'll have eight bottles of Moet, please," but I refrained because (a) I've got a conscience, and (b) I didn't fancy the thought of writing next week's column from the prison canteen.

The picture windows and spacious layout give a bright airy feel, and with its burgundy and cream colour scheme, the restaurant manages to look classy without being overpowering. The look is modern minimalism, but it still manages to avoid the austere look that some contemporary restaurants suffer.

The deep purple carpet with its swirling pattern looks good, and the tables come in different shapes and sizes, surrounded byamixture of brown faux leather seats and light green velvet chairs. I did think the paper serviettes let the side down a little, though, and the candle on our table had not been lit, prompting me to half-inch one from another table.

While I would imagine many of the people in the Victory pub were people staying in the hotel on business, glancing up from their paperwork to keep an eye on the football, the Verve looked to be more a place of recreation, the type of place where people come to mark a special occasion. Certainly the group of ladies sat around the large circular table looked to be having a good time.

While it is never going to be a magnet for hardened real ale buffs, the choice of beers is better than at many chain restaurants. I started off with a half of Bombardier, but I knew I would have to have a glass of Wandering Bear Chardonnay to accompany my meal. According to the wine list, its golden style allows you to "feel the Californian sunshine." It was certainly very pleasant, and I definitely felt a warm glow as I sipped it, but I'm still convinced it was more to do with the Walsall sunset than some transatlantic solar phenomenon.

The food was excellent, and much better than my last visit to a Village hotel some 18 months ago. While there are fish, pasta and burgers for those who fancy them, the clue to this place lies in the name, and we both decided to go for the grills. The choice of steaks seems to have grown since our last visit, with nine different beef options, ranging from the £11.95 minute steak to the 16oz fillet for two at £44.95.

There is also a rump of lamb, lemon herb chicken and grilled salmon, while those wanting something a little more exotic can try the ostrich steak. We both decided to keep it simple, myself going for the 8oz fillet steak with optional peppercorn sauce, and my companion going for the 6oz lady-sized version.

If you pay an extra pound, you can have your steak served on a "hot rock" allowing you to cook it yourself, but I've never really understood the appeal of this. The argument is that you can cook it exactly to your own liking, but then again, you can do that at home. After all, would you pay extra at the garage to service your own car?

Last time I frequented the chain, I found my steak a little tough and fatty, but there were no complaints this time. Beautifully cooked – the menu explains the different cooking methods to ensure there is no misunderstanding – and they were both excellent, although at £20.95 for the 8oz, and £17.95 for the 6oz, so they should have been.

The meals were presented on a neat square plate. I opted for the hand-cut fat chips, while my companion went for the thinner, US-style fries. We both agreed they were of the highest quality, although I would have probably enjoyed a couple more than the half dozen that were served. I was a little put off by the sight of a small skin forming on the surface of the sauce, but that minor quibble aside, it was actually very good and well worth the extra £1.50.

With plenty of room left for a dessert, I was a little disappointed that the cheesecake, with a choice of hot rum bananas, chocolate sauce or strawberry coulis was unavailable, but the waffles served in maple syrup and chocolate flakes was an enjoyable alternative, although a little pricey at £5.95. In fact, enjoyable but pricey is a pretty good summary of the evening really.

The food and service were excellent, and the room attractive, but the total bill came to £64.25. A Bittersweet Symphony? Not really, if you want quality, you have to pay for it, and we did have an enjoyable night at the Verve.

I'm a Lucky Man.

ADDRESS

The Verve Grill, Village Hotel, Tempus Drive, Walsall, WS2 8TJ

Phone: 01922 633661

MENU SAMPLE

STARTERS

French onion soup with a gruyère crouton £5.25; Mussels mariniere with shallots, garlic, white wine and cream, served with a French baton £6.95; Garlic mushrooms on toast £5.75; Salmon fishcake with fresh tartar sauce, tomato and onion £5.95

MAIN COURSES

Hamburger with coleslaw and hand-cut fat chips £10.95; Spaghetti and meatballs in lightly spiced tomato sauce £9.95; Vegetable curry served with basmati rice and Indian bread £10.95; Grilled rump of lamb in mint gravy £16.95; Salmon Burger £11.95; 12oz Montreal sirloin with a spicy herb & chilli rub £19.95; Ostrich steak £17.95

DESSERTS

Bread & butter pudding £5.45; Raspberry creme brulee £4.95; Ice creams or sorbet £4.25