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Route 66 through US heartland
Tuesday 26th May 2009, 3:26PM BST.
Route 66 runs through the heart of the United States like an artery, writes Simon Penfold. Celebrated in song, as you travel along its length you see more of the “real” America than in a month of Sundays at Disneyworld in Florida, in New York or California.
It runs right across the state of Missouri. This is the heartland, the Mid West, a place so different to the East and West coasts of this vast land that it could almost be another country.
Travelling through Missouri I really was driving past clapboard houses with pick-up trucks in the front yard, just like in the movies.
At the same time, you get to enjoy one of the most highly developed tourist destinations in the world. A warm welcome, good service and excellent food at every stop, from the best hotels to ordinary roadside eateries, becomes the expected norm. These people do hospitality like no-one else. They really like visitors.
My brief trip to Missouri started out with a Continental Airlines flight from Heathrow to Houston – 14 hours long but I was able to comfortably sleep through most of it, waking refreshed and ready for my first proper visit to the Home of the Brave and Land of the Free.
Connections took me to Branson, and a stay at the Hilton Promenade Hotel at Branson Landing.
This is a town built on domestic tourism. It is one of the most popular destinations in the Mid West and has provided a home to stars like the Osmonds and Andy Williams, who have their own theatres here.
It also has Silver Dollar City, a theme park worth a day of anyone’s time. Combining traditional arts and crafts with white knuckle rides and everything in between. It was also my first introduction to the American diet – an Ozark breakfast dished up in the most generous portions imaginable. Followed by really excellent hand-made ice cream.
Branson also houses a Titanic Museum in the shape of the ship, with the gift shop in the iceberg. On the inside, however, is a display that is both impressive and moving, bringing home the personal tragedies involved.
The town also features a string of shows described as “Americana” – family entertainment in a traditional US style – as well as a Beatles tribute act, called Liverpool Legends, promoted by George Harrison’s sister.
Then it was back on to Route 66 towards our second destination, the city of St Louis. On the way we visited one of Missouri’s many vast caves: the Meremac Caverns, famed as a hideaway to local boy turned outlaw Jesse James.
As we arrived in St Louis, we hit the two extremes: a tour of the beautiful city cathedral basilica and a trip to Ted Drewes Frozen Custard, home of a delicious ice cream dessert with more calories than I really want to remember.
Food in America is just fabulous. Everyone takes the Mickey out of Americans’ waistlines, but when you see and taste how good the food, you understand the constant temptation. Rib houses like Pappy’s Smoke House serve up dishes that are outstanding: tender and tasty.
Then there is Blueberry Hill, the bar/restaurant/ music venue that, once every month, gets to host a performance by rock ‘n’ roll legend Chuck Berry.
It is a terrific place for a night out, even when no-one is performing, and owner Joe Edwards is now building on its success by opening his own boutique hotel, the Moonrise. I stayed there and would recommend it to anyone: Great rooms, incredibly comfortable beds and a hotel bar that is out of this world.
Step outside one of St Louis’ excellent restaurants or bars, however, and you find yourself in a city with a lot more to offer. It’s officially the place where the West begins, with a museum of Westward Expansion underneath its landmark 630ft Gateway Arch.
A City Museum that is a kind of child’s heaven, full of fantastic things to see and do, a botanical garden, art gallery and one of the best zoo’s I have ever visited.
It was with heavy heart I boarded my flight to Newark New York and on, courtesy of Continental Airlines, to Birmingham.
Missouri and St Louis offer something different from the usual American holiday, and would be ideal for anyone planning their own fly-drive trip.
And don’t forget to keep an eye out for off-the-wall attractions like the world’s largest shuttlecock and the biggest pair of underpants. Like I said, something different.
By Simon Penfold
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