Step into a whole new world in Wales

Thursday 19th March 2009, 12:00PM GMT.

Thousands ascend Snowdon each yearSnowdonia holds a special place in my heart, writes Ginny Buckley.

The first film I made for the BBC TV’s Holiday travel show was shot here. I explored Snowdonia’s cool, artistic side, one that often gets overshadowed by the scenery.

The trip was a revelation. I was thrilled with the quality of the food, the classy, contemporary accommodation and the huge choice of activities on offer for those of us who’d rather gaze at Mount Snowdon than climb it.

I have very fond memories of what turned out to be the first of almost 60 films I made for Holiday. So several years on from that first visit I was happy to find myself heading up the motorway on a busy Friday afternoon to introduce the area to my partner Marek.

When you think of Snowdonia you think of mountains, and those peaks certainly commanded our immediate attention as we left the stress of motorway traffic behind us. It’s impossible not to unwind when you’re driving through such dramatic scenery.

Relaxed despite the long drive we turned off into Dolgellau to spend the night at Ffynnon, a beautiful boutique townhouse run by Debra Harris and Steve Holt.

This couple have used their taste and flair to restore an old rectory to a glory it’s never known before.

We walked into Dolgellau for dinner and discovered we weren’t alone. Joining us were several thousand music fans in town for the legendary Sesiwn Fawr, a festival celebrating the best in Welsh music.

Dolgellau's legendary music festivalDinner at Dylanwad Da, a small, friendly bistro with an excellent wine list, was a lively affair with music drifting in from the bands on the main stage and partygoers filling the streets. After tender Welsh lamb (what else!) we left the fans to enjoy their night and wandered back to the peace of the Ffynnon.

Breakfast was a real treat. Marek declared his pancakes the best he’d ever eaten – high praise from a man who spent 10 years living in America. With plenty of calories to work off we decided to stop admiring Dolgellau’s scenery and explore it instead.

The Precipice Walk was one of the highlights of the trip, a short but intense shot of pure Snowdonia. The circular route, which only takes an hour or so, is appropriately named.

The path clings dizzily to the side of the mountain, giving fantastic views of Cader Idris and the wooded, sandy shores of the Mawddach Estuary snaking along to the sea from Dolgellau.

We left town as it was warming up for another night of great music and headed north to Llandwrog near Caernarfon and Rhiwafallen, a “restaurant with rooms”.

Kate and Rob John, the couple behind this gem, have created something special. Kate’s thoughtful nature and natural warmth make you feel instantly at home, while Rob’s skills in the kitchen ensure that you never want to leave.

Next day we called into nearby Parc Glynllifon. This country estate was once a private home but the magnificent grounds are now open to the public.

The weekend break ended all too quickly. Leaving the mountains behind we hit the motorway and agreed that what makes Snowdonia so special is its strong sense of place and identity.

These qualities are becoming harder to find in this increasingly homogenised world. Long may they remain, along with those chic hotels, arty attractions and that fabulous food. And the mountains too.



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