Villa correspondent Brendan McLouglin went through it all on his UEFA Cup trip to Moscow – here he recalls the good, the bad and the ugly.

There were no welcome signs on arrival in Moscow – it’s not that kind of country. Not that too many of the travelling Villa supporters would have noticed.

The mood of most on arrival in the Russian capital was as bleak as the snow-filled sky, after Martin O’Neill’s decision to leave his Villa stars at home.

The lengthy queue to progress beyond passport control did little to lighten the mood either. Then it was straight into gridlock in Moscow city centre.

As one of the travelling pack remarked, “if you thought the M5 was bad then think again.”

But the sights on show during an evening stroll through a mere slither of the city soon changed the topic of discussion.

Moscow’s famous Red Square is bathed in history and grandeur. From the imposing walls of the Kremlin to Lenin’s tomb to the multi-coloured domes of St Basil’s Cathedral – as remarkable a building as you will ever set eyes upon.

It was impossible not to be impressed.

A strong military presence was apparent. There were police on patrol at every traffic junction, where crossing the road was always a treacherous task. It makes no sense at all.

An attempt to take a photograph of fans with a Union Jack was stopped within seconds, with a stern tap on the shoulder from a member of the secret police who appeared from nowhere.

The stern look on his face indicated this was not a man to be argued with. Expect service with a scowl rather than a smile, but the standard of food and drink was excellent.

But prices? Expect the unexpected.

Wicked whispers that a pint could set you back £7 proved misplaced. The going rate was £2.50, around the same as at home.

Fancy a steak for £40 though? Even Villa chairman Randy Lerner might have opted out of that one.

Don’t walk alone at night was the advice and in truth not many do. It is an intimidating city, but by day it felt safe enough.

Now for the weather. Cold, very cold. Far worse than the deep freezes of a few weeks ago back home at around -10C. But thankfully there was nothing close to the -17C of the day before our arrival.

They don’t do grit in Moscow. Instead 10,000 snow trucks and workers hack away at the ice through the night to maintain the roads. On the street, fur is the order of the day. Hats, coats, even boots.

The Cyrillic language means the names of most shops remain a mystery, but Zara and Oasis were a rare reminder of home.

As for the match, the Luzhniki Stadium was guarded by soldiers with dogs like it was the Kremlin. Zero tolerance.

The atmosphere on the supporters’ bus heading in was quieter than usual, the major talking point still the squad. Surrounded by spare seats, the 300 or so of them had half the stadium to themselves.

A couple remarked it felt like a friendly.

Not a European night that will go down in Villa folklore, then, but the fans departed with some unforgettable memories of a place, altogether different to the one they call home.