Do you ever get the feeling it’s just going to be one of those nights? You just know things aren’t going your way when even Father Christmas is conspiring against you, writes our food reviewer The Insider.

The original plan had been to visit a place in Kinver on the recommendation of an Express & Star reader.

Unfortunately, on the night we called, Santa had beaten us to it. Yes, we managed to call on the one night of the year when the shops in Kinver stayed open late, and scores of kids had turned out to see Santa. After a fruitless search for a parking space, we decided to make merry and try elsewhere.

Parking was also at a premium around The Retreat bistro, in Oldswinford, and I began to think it was not going to be my night when I slipped on the wet decking area leading to the entrance. The deserted dining room did little to put my mind at rest, and the final blow came when the lady behind the bar told me that The Retreat no longer served food. A backward step, you might say. Sorry.

Anyway, a short distance up the Hagley Road was our final port of call, The Crabmill, which was serving food – providing we were prepared to wait – but more of that later.

Parking is certainly no problem at The Crabmill, which is built on a raised embankment set back from the road. There is a reasonably-sized level car park around the pub, with another car park across the road. A large conservatory dominates the frontage, and curiously part of the building is occupied by a hairdressing salon. No danger of coming out half-cut then.

The Crabmill recently reverted to its historic name, after being known for some years as The Oldswinford Lodge. From the outside it looks every inch the traditional Georgian coach house, so it is surprising to read on the menu that the present building actually dates back to the early 1970s.

Apparently it was rebuilt in the same style as the previous pub on the site which was demolished in 1970, having started its life as a doctor’s house.

If you’re visiting for the first time, you will probably do a double take when you walk through the entrance, where hundreds of wine bottles are enclosed in a large glass wall.

The pub has recently benefited from a stylish re-fit, with contemporary rugs providing a contrast with the distressed brickwork and exposed wooden floorboards. Brown leather wing-back armchairs, bookshelves and a large brick fireplace – complete with a pair of Christmas stockings – give a clubby feel to one corner of the room, while there are also soft bucket seats and low round tables for those seeking a more informal environment.

If you want to recreate the atmosphere of the 1960s milk bar, there is a row of tall tables flanked by high bench seats, while a small section partitioned off by a low ballustrade offers a little exclusivity.

You can describe the atmosphere in one of two ways – to some people, adjectives like “buzzing” and “vibrant” will come to mind, or if you are looking for somewhere a little more tranquil, you will probably consider it a little rowdy. There was certainly no shortage of punters on the Friday night we visited.

The clientele was largely young, a large family gathering for a 65th birthday providing one exception to this rule, and there was also what appeared to be a works party in a corner of the balcony area.

Nevertheless, by far the majority of punters looked to be in the 20 to 35 age group, and our table provided an interesting vantage point to study the interesting range of youth fashions, be it the lad with the baggy trousers and large, black swirling tattoos, his mate with the bling and hoodie, or the guy sitting on one of the raised benches with National Health specs and a voluminous olive green parka.

A chap behind the bar informed me there was a 50-minute wait for food, but after the previous two abortive attempts at eating out, we decided to stick with it, although I must say I was a little surprised that it was another 25 minutes before the waitress came over to actually take our order. To be fair, the food did come within half an hour of the order being taken, so the delay was pretty much in line with what we were told.

There is a pretty comprehensive menu, with home-made pies being the house speciality, including British beef and red wine, fish, peppered mushroom and cheddar or shepherd’s pie among the many choices. I considered going for the bangers and mash, very often the test of a good place, but in the end I was tempted by the roast beef in Yorkshire pudding wrap with onion gravy, while my companion went for the fish and chips. Prices were pretty middle of the road, the pies slightly above average at £8.45, probably reflecting their special home-made workmanship, and steaks at £10.45.

The best part of my meal were the crisp golden chips it was served up with; the meat was tender enough and tasted good, but the Yorkshire had a bit of a cheesy tang to it which was not really to my taste. With hindsight, I probably should have gone for one of the speciality beef pies, and while the wrap did offer something a little different, I think I would have preferred a more traditional roast beef dinner with roast potatoes and normal Yorkshire pud.

My companion enjoyed the chips, but felt the fish was nothing special.

The portions were certainly generous and neither of us managed to complete our main courses, but the desserts seemed so reasonably priced it seemed rude to say no, and I went for two scoops of vanilla ice cream, which came in an attractive frosted glass, while my dining partner went for the apple pie. They were simple and excellent value at £2.45 and £2.95 respectively.

Reasonable

We also asked for two coffees, but unfortunately only one arrived, and gentleman that I am, I drank it myself, my companion not being sufficiently bothered to raise the matter.

The bill came to £26.45, which was reasonable for two courses each, a pint of John Smith’s, half a Guinness and a bitter lemon, and thankfully they only put the one coffee on the bill.

While waiting for the receipt after settling up, another member of staff spotted me with my coat on and asked me if I had paid the bill. Perhaps I am being over-sensitive, but it did make me feel that I was under suspicion.

Still, after all the tribulations earlier in the evening, I’m glad it was The Crabmill we settled on, and not another well-known eating establishment a short distance up the road. I had been thinking of trying the Talbot Hotel, and it’s as well I didn’t; it closed on Wednesday.

ADDRESS
The Crabmill Hagley Road,  Oldswinford, DY8 2JP
Phone: 01384 376637

MENU SAMPLE
Starters

Rustic house deli bread, £7.95; Sweet chilli chicken salad, £2.95; Baked mushroom with goat’s cheese, £2.95;

Main courses

Cheese and bacon baguette, £7.70; Ham and eggs, £6.45; Scampi and chips, £6.45; British beef and ale pie, £7.45; 9oz rump steak, £10.45; 7oz sirloin steak, £10.45;  Pies (all £8.45) British beef and red wine, with roasted onion wedges; Fisherman’s pie; Peppered mushroom and cheddar.

Desserts

Cheese platter, £6.45;  Belgian chocolate cheesecake, £3.45; Lemon and blueberry burst, £3.45; Tiramisu, £3.45.