For takeaway lovers who can’t make up their minds between cod and chips or a kebab, masala fish wrapped in naan bread is an excellent compromise.

It’s widely available at kebab houses and chip shops across the region, and I’m a big fan.

Cod marinated in spices and sometimes yogurt, deep fried and then served with salad – and chilli sauce if you like – tastes great.

And the sensible-eating brownie points only lessen slightly when it’s consumed in tandem with a whole naan bread.

The last time I craved masala fish, I went to Neelams Kebab House in Bearwood. I was keen to taste their masala fish, and when I got there I couldn’t resist the possibility of additional order of vegetarian pakora and a shami kebab.

After barely more than five minutes of waiting, my order was duly dispatched, and the ultra-reasonable £5.30 bill settled.

Back home, my first course was the non-greasy burger-like shami kebab.

It was extremely tasty and super spicy – not a problem if you like your food served with a huge quantity of green chilli.

The deep fried spinach and potato vegetable pakora was also electrifyingly hot. However, it had been reheated, rather than freshly cooked.

It tasted fine, though, and the same was true of my £3.50 masala fish.

It was tasty enough, and the fish was moist inside and lightly spiced on the outside, but I’ve got to say that I’ve tasted better versions – all of which were cooked fresh -Êbut I’ve also tasted worse.

The fish was well complemented by tasty fresh salad and hot chilli sauce, which in that particular instance was at my request.

On the whole, my meal was pretty hard to beat in terms of value for money, however I know that I haven’t found a new masala fish Mecca.

Neelams is clean, and also has space for eating in, and I will certainly be going there again. Unfortunately, it has failed to pip my previous best masala fish to the best.

As well as chargrilled kebabs, Neelams also offer chicken and lamb doner kebabs, burgers, and a choice of home-cooked baltis to either eat in or take away.

It is open from noon every day, and also sells pizza.

ADDRESS:

125-126 Poplar Road, Bearwood

Tel: 0121 4203739

By Jim Dunton