Express & Star

Holiday Review: Dreaming of the Spires

The city centre was abuzz with thousands of snapping cameras, ringing tills and trilling bicycle bells.

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Tourists decked out in university sweaters and red, white and blue accessories squished together to capture images of the Bridge of Sighs, Radcliffe Camera and some of the most famous colleges in the world. Even the ever-present threat of being run over by a cycling student seemed authentically appealing.

We started our weekend in Oxford with a stroll around the hazy, summer-drenched streets. We'd taken in all the big hitters (the Ashmolean, Christ Church etc) on a previous visit so were under no pressure to check off an itinerary.

Instead, we ventured a little further off the beaten track, wandering up to the historic suburb of Jericho and its cute little cottages, restaurants and bars.

Superchef Raymond Blanc's Brasserie Blanc was our destination. We tucked our shopping bags (hey, what's a girl to do?) under the table and got stuck into the two-courses-for-£11.50 deal, both ordering a light Spanish omelette and gorgeously gooey chocolate mousse. The food was wonderful and the value exceptional, well worth a visit.

We then meandered back down through the city centre, stopping for a while at the Clarendon and Bodleian Library, before deciding we quite fancied just putting our feet up at the hotel for a while.

Our home for the night was the Oxford Thames Four Pillars, a quick cab ride from the hustle and bustle of the city nestled on the banks of the river.

It is also the recent recipient of a makeover, with 22 stunning new garden rooms built overlooking the water, many with their own private patio. It was on said patio that we enjoyed a bottle of fizz while listening to people laughing and splashing in the river and watching a bride glide down the aisle at a marquee in the grounds. It was pretty heavenly, it has to be said.

The food is top notch too. A platter of breads, olives and sun-dried tomatoes started our evening meal, the highlights of which included scallops, panchetta and pea puree, pan-seared fillet of sea bass, citrus crushed potato, sautéed pak choi with sweet pimento sauce and poached roulade of chicken breast stuffed with baby leeks, fondant potato and a wild mushroom fricassee.

The star of the show however was undoubtedly the chocolate fondant – a dessert so indulgent, we vowed to get up early the next day and use the swimming pool and gym facilities.

We slept in and had a fry-up instead.

Oh well. It was worth it.

A trip to Blenheim Palace was on the cards for the second day.

The hotel can get you discounted tickets so remember to ask at reception – our adult tickets dropped to less than £20 each as a result. Day tickets can also be exchanged at Blenheim for a free 12 months' pass that really is worth getting.

The palace itself is a wonder. Sprawling and spectacular, it is a must for any history buff, gardener or lover of a very English day out.

From visiting the room where Sir Winston Churchill was born to strolling around the fragrant rose garden, there is something for everyone.

We did a tour of the palace, taking in the sumptuous décor and wonderfully-preserved artefacts, our favourite being Sir Winston's monogrammed slippers and velvet onesie. We kid you not.

There's also "Blenheim Palace: The Untold Story" but, unless you're a fan of dodgy animatronics and questionable amateur dramatics, this 35-minute mini-tour isn't really up to scratch. You'd be better off doing your own thing.

Afterwards, we headed out into the 2,100 acres of parkland landscaped by 'Capability' Brown.

The Italian Garden, Rose Garden and Cascades were personal highlights, but it was also heartwarming to see cricket being played on the lawn while families watched from their assorted picnic blankets.

The day was rounded off with some cool drinks in the shadow of the palace right next to the stunning water features.

We eavesdropped a little on the comments from some American tourists nearby who were completely bowled over by the spectacle before them. We had to agree, the palace was breathtaking. Good job we were now in possession of a year-long pass – we'll definitely be putting it to good use.

All in all, a more enjoyable 48 hours away we could not have wished for. Oxford had done what every good city break should: relax us, treat us, teach us.

And that floaty feeling stayed with us as there was no nightmare four-hour journey on the way back home to dissolve all of the chilled vibes – just over 60 minutes later and we were back and still blissed-out. There was no dreaded Sunday-night blues or Monday-morning panic – if only all weekends were like that.

Oxford By Elizabeth Joyce

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