Food review: The Bell Inn, Haughton, near Stafford

It's one of those pubs I've driven past countless times over the years, on the thoroughfare to Stafford, at the hub of the pretty village of Haughton.

And yet, it has taken me all these years to pop in and sample its wares. Well, I've only been driving since 1989 so give a guy a break.

Traditional and quaint in equal measures, The Bell recently underwent something of a transformation, while remaining true to its doubtless history.

As I entered the cream building, the busiest of carpet patterns struck my eye, funky and quirky, a design of leaves in autumnal colours. Quite fetching really.

There's open fireplaces, ceiling beams and awards litter the walls, reassuring patrons that this place doe things right. And so it does.

My guests on this occasion were 13-year-old son Matthew, plus my mother and father.

Ma and pa have frequented The Bell many times over the years and have always raved about the place.

I booked a table as my mother said it can get a bit busy. I'd left it late in the day to be fair, so we were indeed lucky to get a spot at all, but my one criticism of the meal is that we felt rather in the pockets of the neighbouring table.

I am by nature a nosey person and could hear every word – nay, breath – of the couple sat adjacent, who might as well been part of our party. A little distracting.

Okay, gripe dealt with. What of the food?

Really, really good.

The certificates hanging on magnolia walls are clearly justified, providing a hint of the delights awaiting diners.

But first, a thirst quencher. A young lady came to the table and took our drinks order. Timothy Taylor Landlord was on tap (£3.50 a pint) so that was father and me sorted.

Mother had a Smirnoff Ice (£3.45) and young Matthew ordered a lemonade (£2.05).

For starters, Matthew opted out, leaving the three of us to sample some pretty tasty dishes.

My chicken liver and herb parfait (£5) came with spiced pear chutney and tasty olive oil basted bread. Delicious and rich, the ratio of bread to pate was just about right.

Father's potted smoked mackerel (£6) with lemon and dill plus sundried focaccia and horseradish cream was also a triumph, but for my money, mother had chosen best.

Her prawn, hake and chilli fishcakes (£6) were served with a rocket salad and chilli jam.

The pancakes were gorgeous, unlike anything I had tried before. I will definitely give those a go again on a future visit. Anyhow, onto the mains.

Matthew, who had by now watched three adults devour their starters, was undertandably thrilled whenhis wholetail breaded scampi (£10) arrived.

Presentation was good. The scampi nuggets were served in a bowl with a wedge of lemon and garnish, while a jam jar 'lidded' pot of tartare sauce sat alongside.

A bowl of chips, appropriate to our combined order, was brought to the table at the same time.

Mother and father's steak and ale pies (also £10) were an individual bowl of piping hot ale-soaked meat and rich gravy with a shortcrust lid. Rich and delicious indeed. Puff pastry is also available if preferred.

I went for something from the specials menu – Thai green chicken curry (£14) and basmati rice, served with a warm bread basket.

Very tasty. The coconut and heat came through the delicate sauce and the bread – which at a glance seemed a strange inclusion – proved to be a good partner.

I particularly liked the over-sized plate/bowl.

In all, the mains went down well.

I almost fell off my chair when my son declined a pudding. Perhaps he's getting to that age when he is looking after his appearance more?

So to it appears is mother – well, she is almost 70. Almost.

As for me and father, well we are husks of our former selves, so naturally we ploughed on with aplomb.

We both chose homemade tarts from the dessert menu (£5 each). Pa had the treacle tart with ice cream while I opted for a bakewell version.

Both were served nicely, with a sugary biscuit, and the homemade nature added to the pleasure.

With another round of drinks the bill came in at just shy of £95, which was about right for the quality of food and unfussy service.

Would I go again? Well, yes. Yes I would.

I can see why the table we were at was positioned where it was, making most of the window to the outside world, but in placing it there, the fixed position of the table and banquette is too close for comfort. A shame really, because otherwise pretty faultless.

By Paul Naylor